At 12:24 AM 7/23/99 -0400, you wrote:
>hi id like to put in a 351c into my sunbeam tiger mark2
HPTIGER,
Well I did it and therefore any one else could do it.
First thing I did was cut out the original firewall, including
most of the top part that contained the heater core. Starting
1 3/4" forward of the vertical lip that was behind the hood
latch assembly I added a new firewall made from 1/16" steel.
This firewall is flat from top to bottom and side to side.
I had carefully measured the relative positions of the master
cylinder, clutch master cylinder and steering column for
transfer to the new firewall. I separated the brackets for the
two master cylinders from the old firewall and welded them on to the
new firewall. Holes were drilled as necessary for these items
and for things like the drain holes for the vent tubes and for
the wireing harness. I welded the firewall completely around the edges.
This is delicate welding when you are welding to the side
sheet metal. I added aa 1 1/2 X 1/8" thick angle iron piece
across the firewall similar to the original.
Second major item was to add new front frames made from
2"X3"X1/8" thick rectangler tubing. The new frames do not have
the hump like the original frames. They therefore set a bit
lower than the original frames in the area that really needs the
space. The new frames were added flush against the outside of the
original frames. The under body behind the firewall was also
cut to allow the frames to extend back to the horizontal cross member.
The new frames intersected the front cross member such that when the
lower 1 1/2" of the new frame was cut off the upper portion
would extend over the cross member adjacent to the spring tower.
I added to this upper piece of the frame a 1/4" steel plate to
overlap the cross member to frame mounting holes and added the
threaded tubes extracted from the original frame. I then removed
the original frames cut off flush with the new firewall.
The new frames were welded from the firewall back under the Tiger
to the horizontial cross member as well as the sheet metal on
the outside of the new frames.
Third, I removed a good portion of the inner fender well
sheet metal. Using 1" square 1/8" thick tubing I triangulated
from the top of the firewall outer edge to the area in front of the
cross member. Welded every thing together and added 1/8" plate
gussets to the threaded tubes, frame and 1" square braces from
the firewall. These gussets were about as long as the cross member
is wide at the point that the frames cross over. On the front of the
frames I attached some more 1" square tubing to extend out to the
bumper mounting bolts and also added 1" square tubing vertical
to mount the radiator. These vertical pieces are spaced apart about
27 1/2" to allow a Tiger Radiator with a wider core to fit between.
The vertical pieces were fit flush under the original front sheet
metal that is in front of the radiator.
More or less flat sheet metal was revited to the old cut
fender wells , to the brace and to the frame to completely seal
everything up. I have two rows of revits spaced about every inch.
and the second row is off set by 1/2". One could weld the sheet
metal in as well, but I was using galvinized sheet metal and it
is very difficult to weld.
The bracket for the steering column was moved to one
of the braces and I also tilted the steering column down under
the dash by 1/2". I used a couple of 1" long sections of PVC
pipe, cut into a "C" shape and glued together. I then trimmed
this piece to be "MOON" shaped to fit both the inner top of the
steering column mounting bracket and the column its self. Using
slightly longer bolts I then bolted the column in the brackets
with the PVC spacer on top of the column. I extended the Column
out as much as it goes and slid the seat all the way back.
I mounted the brake and clutch pedel to the brackets I had welded
to the new firewall. Had to bend a bit of sheet metal around the
top of the peddles under the dash for clearance. Re mounted the
gas peddle assy as well to the transmission tunnel . The tunnel
was also cut fron the original firewall, spread out a bit for
more clearance and welded to the new firewall.
Fabricated new motor mounts from 1/4" plates. These
mounts are more or less streight out from the new frames, rather
than hanging down like the originals. Used the same type of rubber motor
mounts as the original.
When I was doing this change over I did one frame at a time
while still having the original 289 in the Tiger. In fact I
was still driving it except on weekends when I was working on it.
Any way, this allowed me to fabricate the motor mounts to match
the position of the 289 motor exactly without a lot of fancy measurments.
The 351C motor mounting holes are in the same place.
The 351C has the water pump inlet on the lower drivers side
of the Tiger. the outlet is on top of the front of the block and
the hose goes towards the passenger side of the radiator.
I had the radiator recored wider and at the same time had two
more inlet/outlets added on opposite corners. The original
inlet/outlets are capped with a short hose and a plug so I
can switch back to the 289 if I care too. The upper hose is a stock
Torino 351C hose cut slightly shorter at the radiator end.
the lower hose is an assembly of 1 1/2" copper elbows, copper
tubing, a short streight hose at the radiator and a short 90 degree
hose at the water pump. All this to miss the steering shaft
where it enters the steering rack. Still use the overflow tank
slightly remounted for more clearance. I cut , spread and added
sheet metal to the radiator schroud to make it fit the new modified
radiator, and just recently added a 360 degree piece around the fan
area.
I use the original Tiger II oil cooler and have the oil filter
remoted underneath the drivers side headlight. The hoses pass through
holes in the fenderwell near the radiator.
I fabricated 1 5/8" headers that clear the motor mount brackets
and the starter. They are flat 4 wide just before they enter a flattened
collector and then to a 3" collector flange. The pipes are 2" EMT which
is actually 2 1/8" OD with 1/16" walls, this stuff is cheap and
never rusts out. I have Royal Scott mufflers welded in the middle
of the pipes. The mufflers are not very free flowing, but they sound good
and last forever. The pipes go under the rear axle.
About a year ago I wrapped the headers in ThermoWrap as well. This was
mainly because the headers were close to the bushing on the upper A Frame and
the heat damaged the rubber. I have since added a sheet metal plate
as a heat shield and it seems to be ok now.
I had to use a steel bell housing as the Tiger II aluminum housing would
not clear the 351C flywheel. The original top loader bolted up with
no problem.
To ease the installation of the 351C I cut the sheet metal in front
of the
radiator to clear the waterpump as I inserted the motor. Later I repaired
this cut by overlaying 3/4" wide steel strapping material over the
cut and reviting everything down neatly.
I use a 14" 6 bladed fan that I got a long time ago from Sears.
The alternator hangs from a long bolt screwed into the passengers side cylinder
head plus a an adjustment bracket from a waterpump bolt, i.e. standard
351C mounting hardware. The original 351C pully had several groves
in it and it was too long to fit behing the steering rack. I cut off
all but the inner pully and it works fine. It is difficult to see the
timing mark as the alternator and upper radiator hose is in the way.
I used the original Tiger Temperature sender in the 351C. Screwed it in
with no problems. Fits just below the water neck on the block.
I also fabricated a mechnical clutch linkage to avoid the
Girling setup. There is a mounting point for a ball stud in the side of
the 351C that I used. With the firewall moved back this was possible.
In a later message I may explain this item in more detail, I am getting
tired now.
I use a 650 double pumper and tall air filters. Have a reversed
hood scoop
about 2" tall to clear this. You MUST have traction bars and you really
need wider rear tires. I use the stock 2.88 rear.
If you make this modification, the first time you put the
peddle to the metal, you may crap in your pants. It makes a regular
Tiger II seem like an Alpine in comparison.
I have a partly completed Alpine setting next to my house
that has coil over 4.11 9" rear end, space for a 460 Ford under the hood,
Linclon spindles, ball joints and Linclon disks all around. No interior
other than
tubs at the moment. This would be a good starting point to not chop
up a Tiger II like I did. $1000 and you haul it away.
James Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
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