It just takes a little perspective. For a limited-production car, stuff
for the Tiger is affordable; even Dale's "demon tweaks" could
theoretically cost us more than they do. Also toys, clothing, books.
Books? Like The Book of Norman; not counting what issues will trade for
on eBay, a lot of information for a limited-run book was available for a
modest price. For other Tiger books, I don't think I paid over thirty
dollars for any of them.
I mention this because I got yet another catalog from Classic
Motorbooks, and in it was featured a new book about Bristols. You know,
another Britmobile with an American engine (well, from the 407 model
onwards). The book lists for $500. No, that's not a typo. It was written
by L.J.K. Setright, who uses five-hundred-dollar words if anyone does,
and I'm sure there are lots of pretty color pictures, but I'm reasonably
sure that my entire growing collection of automotive books cost less
than that. Perhaps Bristol owners don't mind the price. Until now, I'd
been griping about the cost of the only book on Iso Rivoltas at $150;
well, over the last couple of years I've been watching the ads, and I've
seen it discounted as low as 55 Pounds Sterling, almost low enough for
me to buy one.
Anyhow, it put the price of things Sunbeam in perspective. I'll still
complain, mind you...
I could use a little technical help.
I found out through Dale A that when installing his rear disc brakes,
one re-uses a couple of 'plates' normally _outboard_ of the old drum
brake backing plate. One is a flat disc, a giant washer. No real problem
here, although it's eerily like the one included in the kit -- he says
use both. The other one is much thinner, and has a boss molded into it
to hold a grease seal. This one is causing me concern.
I cleaned it up, and then figured to knock out the old seal, I had
ordered a pair from Rick at SS. The thin plate looked to bend if I beat
on it, so I figured on using the entire axle housing as a 'jig'. I stood
it on one end, which put the other end at chest height, sorta. I bolted
the plate in place, boss up, as if were being installed. Then I took a
screwdriver to try driving out the old seal, banging on the metal part
farthest away from the boss. I expected to knock in down inside the
empty axle housing, where I could retrieve it.
Nope. All I did was bend it a bit; so I pulled it out and started
inspecting it (should perhaps have done this earlier). The seal, is of
course, primarily rubber, and has one of those coil-spring-in-a-loop
bits like they hold the front balljoint boots on with. I see a metal
ring like a washer on the side away from the boss; that's what I was
banging on and thought it to be part of the seal and would come out. Now
I'm not so sure. It looks almost like it's 'sealed in place'. An
inspection of the new seals (SS label says for Alpine I through IV, then
"RA21T" handwritten over that), shows that it's rubber and spring but no
metal. So; leave the metal part in, and somehow get out the old rubber
and install the new (and if so, _how_). Do I just slam away at the
little metal ring until it comes out, and discard (implying that the new
seal is purposely a different design and doesn't need the metal bit?).
Did I ruin something (and can it be replaced)?
Second question: My nephew was by last night, he's in the auto parts
trade w/a dealer, picked up the Toyota upper BJ boots and didn't pick up
the VW type II lower boots because the dealer want $30 each (!) for
them. It that right? Jeez! Yes, he did ask if they were trying to charge
him for entire BJ's.
Lawrence R. Wright
Purchasing Analyst
Andrews Office Products Div. of USOP
larry.wright@usop.com (new)
Ph. 301.386.7923 Fx. 301.386.5333
|