Allan,
At 02:20 PM 4/15/99 -0700, Allan Connell, Jr. wrote:
>Last weekend I finally took the time to remove and re-install my F4B intake
>manifold in my Tiger. All I can say is this: whatabitch!
>
snip, snip, snip, - - - -
>
>But I recall the facts noted by Tom Hall, Dick Barker,
>Bob Palmer and many others that the most efficient operating temp for a
>FomoCo is 190-210. Opinions?
>
Not only is it the most efficient temperature in terms of gas mileage, but
cylinder wear is less too.
>
>TDC does NOT stand for Total Depravity Captured! On reinstalling my Accel
>dual point model 37201 (Yeah, I know....a Pertronics in a stock distributor
>may be more reliable, but......) I am not really sure that I have got it
>dialed in correctly. To make matters worse, I lost the scrap of paper I had
>the settings written down on. Please note, my 260 is bored-out 30 over,
>running a Motorsports cam, TRW pistons and a Holley double-pumper.
>Accordingly, I need your advice on the following:
>
>Timing (currently set at about 15 degrees BTDC)
>Point Gap (currently set at about 0.15)
>Dwell Angle (have not checked since I replaced the points and lost the
>paper!)
>
I assume you mean the Point Gap is set at about 0.015". This is OK; maybe
could be two or three thou more, but not real critical. A dual point set at
this gap is probably equivalent to a single point set at 0.005"; i.e., you
get a lot more dwell with the dual point, which is it's purpose. This gets
more energy into the coil, while still maintaining reasonable point gap.
An important parameter regarding timing is the amount of advance
(mechanical in this case) you have built into the distributor and how
quickly it comes in. Most Windsor motors like about 32-36 degrees full
advance at about 2500 rpm and higher. Your distributor probably came set
for 20 degrees advance, but probably not at 2500 rpm. Use a timing light to
find out how much advance you have and what rpm is needed to get it. You
will probably want to pick some lighter springs to make it work quicker. If
you stick with 20 degrees mechanical advance, that would put your initial
timing in the 12-16 degree range. This might be OK, but you also might want
to try lugging it around at 5 degrees less advance (7-11) and see if you
like it better. The more you retard it the better it will pull at very low
rpms, like when you are stuck in traffic, but you will give up a little bit
of throttle response. Anyway, the choice is yours, and if you prefer less
initial advance, then set up the Accel with the next increment of
mechanical advance, which is another 5 degrees.
>
>Thanks in advance for your advice on these matters. And if anyone can tell
>me a better way to re-torque the rear ears of the intake manifold other than
>without a torque wrench, I'd love to hear it!
>
Maybe you could try calibrating your wrist and box end wrench with one of
the other bolts you have already tightened with your torque wrench.
>
>Regards,
>
>Allan
>B9472373
>
>Next project, on to the front end! But drive some first, and FAST!
>
How are those brakes working by the way??
See you in S.M. at 11:00,
Bob
Robert L. Palmer
Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
rpalmer@cts.com
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