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REAR HUB REMOVAL

To: Steve Laifman <laifman@flash.net>
Subject: REAR HUB REMOVAL
From: David McDermott <David.Mcdermott@Colorado.EDU>
Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 20:29:04 -0700
        Steve,

        You are correct in that a well designed puller is better and causes
less 
damage. I have disassembled perhaps a dozen Tiger rear axle assemblies over
the years and found that a good puller works on about 80-90% of them with
the assembly still on the car. However, in the case of the other 10-20% I
have found another method that works. The really stuck hubs were usually on
Tiger axle assemblies that came from the rust belt states. In those cases
rather than ruining the axles I simply removed each of the axles along with
the backing plate, hub, bearings etc. This is done by removing the four
bolts that hold the backing plates to the axle housing. Then fit two nuts
180 degrees apart between the loose backing plate and the housing. Run two
long smaller diameter bolts through two of the holes in the housing threaded
through the nut, through the loose backing plate and then have the end of
the bolt contact a solid point on the back of the hub. Then hold the nut and
turn the bolt a half turn at a time on each side. The bolts then press out
the complete axle, bearing, backing plate and hub still assembled. Then I
take those two assemblies to a machine shop with the proper presses etc.
They have a fixture that supports the back side of the hub and can apply a
hydraulic press against the end of the axle. Even using this method in a
couple of cases they had to also apply heat before the tapered axle
separated from the hub. After that you can then slip off the backing plate,
seal retainer  and remove the old bearings etc. It sounds complicated but it
really was easier for me and the machine shop did not charge very much to do
their part. It also avoids the brute force methods, flying hubs and/or
having the correct puller. I found it was the only way that worked for the
really frozen on hubs. Of course you lose some of the "fun" of the pullers,
hammers etc. Anyway it works for me.

        Dave McDermott     


At 07:53 AM 1/22/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>Larry,
>
>Use a screw-type puller with bolt holes for the studs,
>instead of jaws, and put the nut on the shaft backwards to
>retain the end from mushrooming.  This is how it's supposed
>to be done.  You may want the axle on the car to counteract
>torque.
>
>The other methods are crude and could stretch your axle.
>Didn't your mother tell you that you could go blind if you
>yank on it?
>
>{9->
>
>--
>Steve Laifman         < One first kiss,       >
>B9472289              < one first love, and   >
>                      < one first win, is all >
>                      < you get in this life. >
>
>
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