Tom,
Are you recommending we go to 1/2 studs?
Reisentz told me to just get the ARP 7/16 studs
(which I custom ordered to be as long as possible with my closed
nuts).
Paul said the rear hubs are weaker because the hole is right
out to the outside diameter.
Gary
On Mon, 04 Jan 1999 18:28:37 -0800 Tom Hall <modtiger@engravers.com>
writes:
>At 09:22 AM 1/3/99 -0800, you wrote:
>...
>
>>Jim, I've been told by my engineering friends that all you need to
>achieve
>>the maximum strength of the bolt is a thread depth equal to the
>diameter of
>>the bolt. Now, I feel better having a bit more than this, but it
>doesn't
>>seem likely that drilling out the nuts to achieve yet another 1/4" is
>going
>>to add any strength. It does, however, insure that you neither bottom
>out
>>because of too long studs, or hydraulically jam the nut if you apply
>grease
>>to the threads (a no-no with closed end nuts).
>>
>>Again I say, for all the work required to replace the studs of either
>>diameter, the choice is really pretty arbitrary. If one chooses
>7/16", then
>>use at least grade 8 or ARP super bolts and be extra careful not to
>>over-torque them. With either 1/2" or 7/16", a major point is to get
>the
>>interference fit between the knurled portion of the shank and the hub
>holes
>>sufficiently tight. This might be harder to achieve if you replace
>with
>>7/16" studs.
>
>>Bob
>
>For those who might be interested, I have a hardened tool steel
>fixture to
>drill and tap either front or rear hubs for 1/2-20 threads. The
>fixture
>locates on the proper hub steps for concentricity and fits over a
>remaining
>7/16 stud for rotational location. After drilling and tapping, I use
>1/2-20 button head socket screws which are typically in the grade 8-9
>strength range. They are available in several appropriate lengths to
>accommodate various wheel thickness and/or spacer plates. I install
>them
>with hi strength locktite, but they remain changeable. This seems to
>be an
>essentially bullet proof method to install changeable high strength
>studs
>for severe duty and avoids the problems of knurl fitting, location,
>alignment, and hydraulic press requirements.
>
>I also strongly recommend that any closed mag type nuts be "chased"
>with
>the appropriate bottoming tap to produce full depth threads. Most
>manufacturers of these type of nuts do a very quick and dirty
>threading
>operation leaving 1/4" or more untapped at the bottom. This is just a
>"good practice" procedure to avoid potential problems.
>
>Tom
>
>
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