a)I was looking through a J. C. Junk catalog (not mine, I finally got
off their mailing list), saw something cute in their new-items pages. An
aluminum extrusion with LAT-8-style fins designed to slip over an oil
filter to dissipate heat; it is held to the filter by a big hose clamp
around its middle, it appeared in the drawing to go 95% of the way
around the filter. I would imagine that the efficiency would be directly
related to the ability to transfer heat from the filter to the
extrusion; if the center is clamped tight and the whole thing heats up,
then perhaps the ends might flare out and cause an insulating air gap
(but wouldn't it be self-correcting, and cycle like a thermostat in a
house?). Well, I cannot imagine using on a stock Tiger oil filter
set-up, but perhaps it might work on a car with the FMS or Econoline
adapter, or cars like mine with the filter relocated in the fenderwell.
I think the cost was $16.95 plus getting stuck on their mailing list for
5 years; for someone whose Tiger is in a borderline-overheating mode, it
might help a wee bit.
b)It has been 2 weeks since my 1st post about rebuilding the suspension
on the Garage Queen; I got some really useful feedback. So, I'm
re-posting the whole darn thing, with _edited_ responses inserted in
brackets. Two reasons: first, somebody else could perhaps use the help;
second, you'll see there are still a few questions unanswered and I'm
hoping to get additional help. As you can see, there are a few "???"
still open.
ORIGINAL MESSAGE:
It's about time for me to start shopping for all of the parts to rebuild
the suspension (and upgrade brakes) on the Garage Queen. My intent is to
set the car up with the capabilities for fairly aggressive street
driving and the occasional autocross. Currently, everything is very old,
and I suppose worn out, except:
a) 4 year old CAT front springs
b) 4 year old Spax front shocks (BTW, 4 years old means about 2000
miles)
c) Plastic A-arm bushings from Tiger Auto Service, about 10 years old
from my old Alpine (thus Alpine A-arms and fulcrum pins) [fit grease
fittings if possible]
d) poly bushings on stock front sway bar.
e) rebuilt front calipers, and braided ss flex lines front and rear
f) recently rebuilt steering rack & new steering U-joints
g) poly upper & lower front suspension limit snubbers; the lower ones
were meant for traction bars (!) originally.
So I'm asking opinions on where & what to get; all advice
welcome. If it gets quiet on the List, like it has for the last few
days, I could serialize my progress this winter on the project, similar
to "The Inside Story" I did on my interior in 1997 (hopefully I won't
fade out with an e-mail server crisis this time). So, here's the, well,
"Parts Chart":
Item Source Cost
I) front rotors: Dale [$250]
II) rear disc conversion: Dale [$650]
III) Rear springs Dale? CAT?[re-do
originals][Dale] [$25-30ea][$200]
IV) oversized front swaybar [Addco w/Dale's mounts]
??
V) rear Spax Classic Sunbeam? ??
VI) Panhard bushings TTMS? [SS] $18.50?
VII) Traction arm Dan Walters ??
VIII) crossmember wedges ?? ??
IX) upper ball joints (eek!) [SS] ??
X) lower ball joints (eek!) [SS] ??
XI) new rear 2.88 gears [Barry S.] ??
XII) posi unit [Barry S.] ??
XIII) rear axle bearings/seals [NAPA] ??
Feel free to comment/revise/add/etc. And I'm looking for info on
prices as well as quality, where applicable.
Questions:
1) Do any of the existing bits (a) through (f) above sound like they
should be replaced?
2) Other than shipping it to Smitty's, is there a diagram with the areas
needing welding/reinforcement on the front crossmember? [CAT tech hints
manual][Tom Hall sent very detailed descriptions]
3) Anybody running 4 wheel discs _without_ a booster? I really wasn't
planning on getting one, but I'd consider it if needed for the 4WD
set-up.
4) I'm planning on scraping & recoating the underside of the car while
I'm down there. Plus/minuses on POR-15 and its competitors? [most input
positive, but I'm warned this _won't_ be a fun job; no mention of other
brands]
5) What kind of Mangafluxing or other "activity" should I perform on the
remaining parts, and where? (As in what kind of businesses should I be
looking for to do this.) And is this expensive? [DIY kit @$100][also
told _don't_ use DIY kit]
6) The "locking" nuts on the ends of the fulcrum pins don't feel
reassuring in their "locking ability"; anyone try double-nutting these?
The plastic bushings are not supposed to be _too_ tight. [drilling &
safety wire recommended][or double-nutting OK]
7) Repeat question: how about ditching the front disc dust shields? [got
conflicting feedback on this one; inconclusive]
8) The car will for a while have no suspension under it and have to be
propped up on jackstands; where's the best place under the car to put
them? Don't want to budget for a hydraulic lift right now. [no answer to
my question as stated, but some recommended tilting the car on its side
and/or being very careful]
9) What am I forgetting?[possibly a set of fulcrum pins from Doug
Jennings][use marine grease, and upgraded non-Sunbeam boots on
balljoints][check frame @ rear spring mounts carefully]
Lawrence R. Wright
Purchasing Analyst
Andrews Office Products Div. of USOP
lrw@aop.com
Ph. 301.386.7923 Fx. 301.386.5333
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