This is a rather long reply to Dave Binkley, on the brink of
installing a LAT-1 induction kit, as the Lord Rootes
intended, but didn't tell
anybody how. Don't read it, unless you have some induction
interest.
Dave,
Thank you for reading my previous post on my F4B project.
Unfortunately, you didn't read ALL of them. While
everything you said is
correct, and as I discussed, you missed the critical closing
chapters.....
"While Our brave hero, Flash Gordon, escaping from the evil
clutches of Ming the Merciless, takes off with Princess Zara
in the dripping
space rocket, circling the field for altitude....."
Whoops, wrong serial. {8->
OK, the F4B:
The carb does clear, and flipping the spacer over does align
the tube with the PVC valve , with the help of a little
hose.
BUT, after a few miles I started to notice some slight marks
on my stock hood. They coincided with the leading edge of
the stock air
cleaner rounded corners, on each side of center. Yes the
carb and air cleaner center cleared (if you don't use the
nostoc wing nut), but
the forward air cleaner corners don't quite make it - with a
stock air cleaner. If yours is a little thicker, it is
worse.
Thinking that this is not a good thing, I reread the
instructions form Rootes on installing the F4B, that comes
with the kit. It talks about
attaching the hose to the stock Ford four-barrel spacer -
which is about 1" thick. Obviously, by then (this was a
Chrysler-Rootes instruction pamphlet), they had gone to a
low rise manifold.
The ultimate cure, short of a different air cleaner, is a
little more difficult. But here it is:
1) Find a REAL carburetor shop that sells Holley carb
PARTS. It costs about #35. There is one called Northridge
carburetor, in
Northridge, California (yes earthquake alley). I bought a
throttle plate from a 600 CFM late model vacuum secondary
carb. It consists of
the base, throttle rods, butterfly valves, and staked
linkages and accelerator pump cam. Just like you would find
if you unscrewed
yours.
2) This plate has several advantages. There is a built-in
PVC tube on the right side that will fit your stock PVC
valve. While the current
tube is smaller than the original PVC valve, another piece
if hose inside the original will make it work fine. Or use a
matching hose/PVC
valve to the carb tube. The choke adjust plate screw, on
the left hand side, does not quite line up with the notched
cam on your carb. A
little needle-nose adjusting is in order here. You MUST
adjust the screw to notched idle step cam BEFORE you put it
on the car, cause
there is NO WAY, that I have found, to do it after the carb
is on. If anyone knows how, please let me know.
3) There is not lever to "kick" that little cross rod that
vents the front bowl. doesn't seem to care.
4) A comparison of the holes in the plate and carb, and the
gaskets for each, seem to show that all working passages are
connected with
either, even though the counter man doubted it.
5) You get a built-in anti-backfire check valve to save
your power valve in case of back fire. You don't have to
buy that $7 kit.
6) The throttle plates, and bore, for the 600 are about 1/16
larger than the bore of your 465. The counter man said it
would hit the smaller
bore, on opening, and jam. With the center of rotation in
the middle of the casting, and the disks being round, the
amount the protrudes
into your main bore is a great deal less than the existing
diameter, so he was wrong again. Don't trust a "counter
man" until after you've
checked it out. Although he may know a lot more about the
number of teeth on your starter drive and fly wheel than you
do.
Now you have an additional 3/8" space above your carb
center, and the sloping curved hood does not hit the edges
of the air cleaner.
Sorry I found out about it AFTER I scrapped my hood, but
hope I caught you before you do.
Moral, read all the posts. I make mistakes too.
Other recommendations. Don't know what altitude you live
at, but I increased the main jets 2 steps from 57's to
59's. Runs a lot
stronger. My air/fuel ratio meter says it's a bit rich at
all times, (about 13.5 instead of 14.7) which is what you
want with today's gas.
There is a new "Blue" Holley gasket that is reusable. Sell
them in pairs for float bowls and meter block/plates for
most models. These are
not the rubberized jobs that seem to set and leak (I am
told). If you are using a stock gasket, I found that you
can reuse them if you
change within about 1 month. After that, they seem to stick
to the carb and get destroyed. If you are using stock
gaskets, put a "lite"
coating of chapstick on the surfaces of the gaskets (not in
the holes). They come off without sticking, don't leak, and
may 1 more use.
Mr. Gasket sells nylon washers to replace the cork ones
under the bolts, if they get worn.
Hope this reaches you in time.
On your dual-plane question:
1) ALL F4B's are dual plane. They are also moderately high
rise. Higher than the Performer, lower than the Torker,
about the same as
the Performer RPM. The dual plane is a very smooth
performer, and has strong torque characteristics in mid
range. Much better than a
low rise everywhere. Mine idles like a clock at 550 rpm.
The higher Torker is fully open, and is great for high end
torque. Goes well
with high performance cams and really is good at high
rpm's. Idles like a wet dog, especially with the cam that
should go with it, but it's
performance range of 2000 rpm to where the valves float, are
really good. You pays your money, and you takes your
choice.
The Performer RPM is actually an updated version of the
original F4B, but performs better, as the runners are much
more even
length between cylinders. Then again, it's not "original".
Same quote.
Gaskets: Don't know your weather. Ours is mild year round,
so have no use for heat on the bottom of the intake
manifold and would
install the gasket to block any gas passage under the
manifold hot days it can boil out your gas while parked, or
assist in vapor lock. In
cold country, you better consider it.
With stock exhaust, you can reconnect the fresh air pipe
between the exhaust manifold hole and that little tube on
the bottom right of your
air cleaner, as your 1848 has a hot-air choke, and this is
where the hot air is supposed to come from. Most Tiger's
I've seen have them
removed. Doesn't hurt anything, so put it back, or
fabricate one with some brake line.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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