There seems to be a tear in the space-time continuum as the Tiger list is
discussing proper pressure caps at the same time as the Alpine list is
talking about pressure caps - but both for different reasons.
The Tiger list is talking about using *higher* pressure caps to raise the
boiling temp.
The Alpine list is talking about using *lower* pressure caps to reduce the
risk of blowing up the heater core.
It was suggested on the Tiger list to use a pressure cap of at least 13
psi, while it was suggested on the Alpine list that a cap of 10 psi or more
puts the heater core at risk. Since they are the same heater cores in both
cars, how does one resolve the conflict?
For you Tiger listers who have not seen the Alpine thread, the issue was
raised by someone inquiring how to remove a heater core that was too wide
for the hole. The response was that too much pressure in the system caused
the sides to bow out and that the sides had to be pushed back in to get it
out. One even reported a heater core that blew up during pressure testing.
One suggested that once the core was out, and the sides flattened back to
their normal position, have two strong metal strips welded on each side. I
am not sure what they did about welding around the factory's structural
"X"s already built in.
For you Alpine listers who have not seen the Tiger thread, the pressure cap
issue was raised in connection with a thread on heat transfer dynamics,
what the best ratio of water to antifreeze is, what antifreeze itself is,
what other additives are available and how they taste, and that if you are
driving your Sunbeam at 19,536 feet you should replace your 14# cap with a
23# cap. Although alluded to by Bob, the typical argument over fast moving
water versus slow moving water has not started up YET. The end result
seems to be use 50/50 antifreeze to water, and distilled water if desired,
but not mineral water. Water wetter was discussed as it has been before,
with no conclusive result.
Jay Laifman
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