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RE: Electric fan attachment

To: "Allan Connell" <alcon@earthlink.net>, "Steve Laifman" <laifman@flash.net>,
Subject: RE: Electric fan attachment
From: Bob Palmer <rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu>
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 1998 14:19:09 -0700
Allan, et al.,

Let me correct a misimpression that Allan has, with undoubted good
intention, promulgated with this posting. That was no "gentleman" he was
following but, in fact, yours truly. I'm very sure that no legion of Men in
White or combination of psychoactive prescription drugs will be able to
rectify this well documented deficiency.

BTW, wrt your comparison with the aluminum radiator, what's your point?
Copper is better than aluminum?? I have consistently stated my belief that
aluminum is inherently no better than copper as far a cooling efficiency is
concerned. In fact, copper has the higher thermal conductivity, but this
difference is not going to affect the rate limiting parameters of the
cooling system. Aluminum is, however, lighter than copper, and cheaper too.
Anybody seen any new cars with copper radiators in the last twenty years or
so?? Ever pick up an aluminum radiator, then one of those really bitchin
copper ones? Must be 20# difference. Not what you want to hang off the
front of your car if you don't have to. And, finally, just to enter the
numbers from my cockpit for comparison, my very accurate temp gauge never
went over 230F, but I did need the electric fan on to get by even this
well. Also, the overflow was excess that exceeded the capacity of the
recovery bottle. I had refilled the system recently after doing a
thermostat swap and this was the first time it had gotten anywhere near
this hot.

Well Allan, guys; got to get back to watching for the next episode of Colin
does Texas. Could make that little incident down in Waco look tame by
comparison.

Bye for now,

Bob

At 11:10 AM 8/22/98 -0700, Allan Connell wrote:
>FWIW, I took Steve's advice on this radiator set-up last year and have been
>VERY happy I did.
>
>As well, when we were heading up to TU in Big Bear we got stuck in some
>construction traffic coming up the hill.  While idling for some time the car
>remained very cool.  (Noteworthy here is that my mill is bored-out at least
>30 over by the fellow who reassembled the car in 1986, running a mild cam
>and a too-big Holley four barrel.)  Interestingly enough the gentleman we
>were following had an aluminum radiator in his car.  He started puking
>coolant while we sat there waiting.  My car never did.  Temp gauge got up to
>about 240 before traffic started moving again.  Once at speed, dropped back
>down quickly to about 190.
>
>Steve, as usual, my compliments to the rocket scientist!
>
>Now I did notice a bit of a problem with number 8 plug when I got
>back.....very oil fouled.  I am hoping it is a cheap manifold gasket that is
>the problem, but have not had a chance to check it out as of yet.  If it
>aint the problem, I am just gonna keep changing plugs until I have a problem
>similar problem with at least three more cylinders.
>
>Regards,
>
>Allan
>B9472373
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:  owner-tigers@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Steve Laifman
>Sent:  Friday, August 21, 1998 2:28 PM
>To:    FRANK_BONIFAZI@HP-FtCollins-om4.om.hp.com
>Cc:    Tiger's Den
>Subject:       Re: Electric fan attachment
>
>Frank,
>
>Your questions:
>
>1)  260 vs 289 block.  Yes, they are the same generic type "block", but the
>cores
>for the water passages are very different.  While both are "thin-wall", the
>wall
>between the bore and the water is about the same thickness, but the bore is
>0.2"
>less on the 260.  So, a 0.030 overbore gets the piston to about the same
>distance
>from the water in either case.  There is NO extra thick wall on the 260's
>that
>allow it to be bored to 4.00" (0.200 overbore).  Anything else said is just
>plain
>dumb luck about the centering of the casting molds.
>
>2) An 0.030 overbore is not a bad thing.  Many rebuilders got to 0.060 (and
>that
>is NOT a good thing).
>
>3) You will be very unhappy with a 4 row in that price range.  A good
>Modine, with
>the high fin count and densly packed tubes should cost about $300, and is
>well
>worth it.  Saving money here is wasted.  Only other option worth considering
>is a
>2 row aluminum radiator, which is more expensive, thicker, and requires
>custom
>shrouds and does not look stock, but works very well.  The 4 row Modine fits
>your
>stock tanks.
>
> See my previous "cooling" postings on all the things you can do (with an
>engine
>that has no sefere illnesses).  If you don;t have one, right back and I'll
>send
>you a copy.
>
>Steve
>
>--
>Steve Laifman         < One first kiss,       >
>B9472289              < one first love, and   >
>                      < one first win, is all >
>                      < you get in this life. >
>
>
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