No. What you will need to take them is the crank, fly wheel, presure plate,
rods, piston and pins, rings, rod bearings, and rod bolts lock plates if any and
nuts, front pully,a dn dampener. Basically every moving pat attached to the
crank. This allows the competant shop, (Speed shop preferably) to weigh
everything, make up dummy weaights, and spin the entire mass, until it spins
without vibration at any speed. This is ABSOLUTELY required if you plan on
spinning your engine up above 7,000 RPM, which they will do with the right
parts. It a very good Idea if you plan to run it hard (autocross, etc) up to
arount 6,000 RPM, but may not be needed if you plan on justing putting around
town and driving to work everyday. It all depends on fast you want to go....and
of course, how mauch you want to spend..
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: FrizBMG@aol.com <FrizBMG@aol.com>
To: richards@northcoast.com <richards@northcoast.com>; tigers@autox.team.net
<tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 7:54 AM
Subject: Re: Re: Potporri
>Hi Chris
> On Sunday you sent in reply to my potporri posting:
><<I would put a windage tray in the engine. Low cost and a great benefit.
>
>Have the motor balanced...about $130-170 at most shops that are equipped to
>
>do it. polish and port the exhaust manifolds. 260 V8s assemble like the
>
>289.
>
>
>
>Chris in Trinidad>>>
> OK,Ill bite.So what is balancing?(when I took the 260 in for rebuilding I
>told the shop owner I wanted it balanced.He said it already was.I assume that
>he was talking about the rough balancing that Ford did,and what you are
>refering to is a finnesse-ing to make it purr-fect.)Do I need to take in a
>wholly assembed short block ..or just some of its components?
>Tony
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