Mike,
We apparently gave Jim the same answers. As far as insulation is concerned, I
just stripped my interior for painting and found a number of
interesting things. The right door skin was insulated with "roofing paper",
which had all been gathered up by the window mechanism and
rolled to the bottom of the door. The left door was original factory color, no
glue residue, and no insulation whatsoever. I saved the pieces
recovered from the bottom of the door and reassembled in (just like I did with
the huge rocket pieces that fell from the sky during a
"mishap") , So I now know the "original" measurements (sort-of). The hard top
was insulated with a combination of burlap and jute
covering a rectangular shaped thick insulator (1 square) in the center of the
top. The burlap/jute had turned mostly to dust, and the center
stuff was cracking off in 4" squares like it was a rigid glass. I am sure it
was a flexible dense rubber-like substance originally. The
burlap/jute is the same stuff as under the dashboard. The kind that
disintegrates, when your under the dash, and falls into your nose, eyes
and mouth.
My son Jay, when rebuilding his Alpine, used an aluminum foil backed insulator
on the inside of the firewall, and the doors, and found that
he had to make a jigsaw puzzle out of it to get it in place, and the self-stick
didn't do very well on vertical surfaces.
The local stores carry fiberglass based insulation, some with foil outer layer,
but it is not very heavy.
If you want good thermal protection, and sound deadening properties, I am
looking into a product sold at my local PPG dealer. It is called
"Q-Pads" comes in two sizes. #100-116, 12"x12", moderate thickness 6 squares for
$20 ($0.023/sq. in.), or Heavy Duty # 100-117,
16"x16" extra thick and heavy, 4 squares for $38 ($0.037/sq.in.). This box of
is really heavy, and it's expensive (as if the other wasn't.) .
They are peel-off sticky back, but I don't have a lot of faith in that, as they
tell you to really clean the surfaces well. Getting behind the
window mechanism (even with the glass removed) is no mean trick, and care must
be taken to damage the outer paint on the other side of
the metal with heat or cleaners. These are probably good for horizontal
surfaces, like your floorboards, but rather dear.
I've got a call in to their Tech Support line to find out whether a troweled
mastic would keep it bonded to a vertical or upside-down surface.
Let me know if you are interested, are have alternatives. I think we need the
weight/density to do any good about sound deadening.
BTW: I've located a web-site that sells the jute/burlap stuff, and thier own
version of these pads, if you are interested i'll try to find it in my
bookmarks.
STEVE
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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