Due to unforeseen popular demand, I will put a description of Doug Jenning's
body hang system on the list. It's not brief, so if this doesn't interest
you, zip it now. Also, a rotisserie is far simpler and more convenient IF
you've got a car that will structurally handle the strain. If not, or worse,
if maybe not, then read on.
I am hampered by the fact that there were no measurements and I have
temporarily misplaced the pictures he sent. But the idea is simple and
obvious, once you picture it.
I am not an engineer, and therefore overcompensation and caution are the rule
here! The system is welded squares inside of a welded box. Doug said he
used 2" angle iron to build, but I don't know what guage (it looks pretty
hefty in the pics). First square is slightly wider than the frame rail width
at the crossmember mounting points (believe he used the rear two, but I'll
find the pics and post that tomorrow), is mounted on the bottom of the car
and goes DOWN. The top bar of this square is drilled to match the frame
inserts and bolted onto the car (I'd recommend some big washers here to
distribute the load such as are used on the crossmember itself). The side
bars go straight down and are long enough to get below the level of anything
on the tub itself. The bottom bar is of course parallel to the top bar.
Second square is similar, except that it is mounted on the top of the car and
goes UP. Bottom bar rests along the narrow ledge that is the top of the rear
axle hump (where the top of the rear shock bolts are accessed). Use as much
width as will fit. Bar is drilled to match shock bolt holes and then bolted
there to car. CAUTION!!!: Doug recommends filling the recess @ shock tops
with washers to prevent crushing the two layers of sheet metal together by
cinching down the bolts to the square. THIS IS IMPORTANT, as that would be a
nasty fix! Side bars go up enough to clear everything on the top of the car.
Top bar parallels the bottom one.
Finally, build a rectangular box around the car. Width is enough to clear
your needs (rockers?). Height should be enough so that the car will hang in
the center of the box (this is variable, depending on the length you've made
the sides of the two squares). Length is the dimension between the two
existing squares bolted to the car. The bottom front bar of the box and the
bottom bar of the front square are then match drilled and bolted, as are the
top rear bar of the box and the top bar of the rear square. Some additional
steel for triangulation on the box for strength/stability is advised.
If this sounds confusing, draw it as I've described it and it should become
clear. With car suspended in the box, access is changed by rolling the box
over. Doug says one healthy guy can do it, but obviously this is not
feasible in a one car garage.
I can also see this being turned into a rotisserie system with some more
steel and welding, which is what I plan to do.
Why do it this way? Again, I can't quote the physics, but the reduction in
leverage by moving the suspension points towards the center of the car (and
especially if combined with bracing in the doorways - recommended) should
allow even the most rust insulted body to be hung without tweaking. And
allow YOU to scrape, grind, weld, etc. without tweaking too.
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