Wally, Jim, et al.,
I just thought I would offer a little information in favor of the stainless
steel. I talked with some welding experts and they say that welding mild
steel to stainless is not problem. You can use either stainless or steel
rod. I don't know about how they compare as far as ease of shaping, but
you can try a small piece for comparison. Probably not much different.
There are different alloys with different properties of course (302, 304,
etc.). As far as the corrosion problem Wally mentioned, the real issue is
electrochemical potentials, which is not really the same as corrosion
susceptibility. Stainless steel is still mostly iron with some nickel
thrown in. The potentials of nickel and iron are almost the same, so I
think there is really no problem in this regard. I'd at least try some
sample welds and a little shaping with a hammer before setting aside a nice
piece of stainless steel sheet metal.
Bob
At 10:11 PM 11/20/97 +1100, you wrote:
>>X-Sender: anitabrt@pop.mindspring.com
>>Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 17:44:46 -0500
>>To: tigers@autox.team.net
>>From: Anita Barrett <anitabrt@mindspring.com>
>>Subject: SS Rust Repair
>>Sender: owner-tigers@autox.team.net
>>Reply-To: Anita Barrett <anitabrt@mindspring.com>
>>
>>Tigers,
>> I am about to start the replacement of most of the lower 1/4 of the
>>Tiger sheet metal along both sides. I have done this before on other
>>cars using 24 gauge steel sheet metal and also using galvinezed sheet
>>metal. This time I aquired a 4"X 10" 24 gauge Stainless Steel # 304 sheet.
>>I do have a MIG with SS wire and argon. Any words of wisdom from
>>the list?
>>Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others
>>
>>
>Dear Jim
>
>If you live in a corrosive environment (near the sea) what you will set-up
>is a galvanic cell, where the metal that is more suseptable to corrosion,
>corrodes at a faster rate. In your case this will be the rest of the mild
>steel body. This may not be at a high enough rate to worry about.
>
>The other hassle is that the St/St will be more difficult to form and work
>with, and will distort more with welding.
>
>May be better to stick to mild steel and rust proof extensively with Tectel ?
>which is made I think by Valvoline.
>
>Maybe you should buy a Deloren!! for that ALL OVER silver look. If you got a
>scratch you can just give it a steel wool buff.
>
>Regards
>Wally Menke
>
>
>
Bob Palmer
UCSD, AMES Dept.
rpalmer@ames.ucsd.edu
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