This message contains content on modifications just completed on my Tiger.
It may be lengthy, so if you are not interested, please feel free to delete
this message now.
After exaustive (and often annoying to some....I started this journey in
March) inquiries to this list, I finally figured out the combinations of
modifications to my cooling system that I believe have lended to some
exceptionally postive results. Suffice to say that I now have DIFFICULTY
getting the temp on my Tiger ABOVE 170 degrees!! Hopefully in describing
the modifications I will help some other poor soul who is just as
anally-retentive over heat as I am. As well, I will attempt to thank those
who have helped and acknowledge them for their contributions to the effort.
If I miss someone, it is unintentional.....EVERYONE helped and for that I
am thankful!!
It would be helpful to mention at the start the previous configuation of
the cooling system on my Tiger. The car was originally restored and
reassembled in 1986 here in San Diego and the engine is farily modified
with a very low rear end. Some estimates from Dick Barker and Bob Palmer
put the rear end somewhere between 3.56 and 4.11. This only matters in
that RPM's are realitvely high at freeway speeds, which is where I have had
most of my difficulties. As near as I can figure, the water pump is stock
Ford, though not stock Tiger, as the hub is stock 5/8" rather than the
"turned around" 1" hub. Previous fan was a six blade stainless flex fan.
Previous core was 3 row, (staggered 2-1-2-1, etc.) and a fat 2-34" thick.
First modification made several months ago at the suggestion of Tom Hall
was to block off the holes in the front above the horns. Done with some
aluminium sheeting, this made a bit of a difference, but not a lot. It did
keep me on the hunt for a complete solution. It should be noted that Tom
made some further recommendations regarding cores and fans that I did
implement as well.
Many suggested a re-core to a 4 row radiator core. Cullen Bennett, Bob
Palmer, and Dan Wagner (Jim Barrett, 351 Tiger II and others, too??)
suggested going to the aluminium hi-po radiator from the gentleman in
Arizona. Though not an originality phreak, I did want to retain the look
in the engine bay as much as possible, but did want the 4 row core. As
well, I wanted to stick with a copper core.
Steve Laifman suggested that he liked his re-core and had obtained some
great results. On a business trip to "the valley" Steve kindly invited me
to his home to look at his radiator set-up. I liked the look and he was
kind enough to give me the name of the fellow who did the re-core. This
gentleman was very gracious to speak with an idiot like me long-distance
and answer some real inane questions. He pointed me to the MODINE 4 row
core, "H" model that is 2-1/8" thick, with a fin spacing of 14 fins per
inch. That is exactly the radiator core I had my radiator guy install. It
is amazing how radiator technology and construction has changed. The fins
on this puppy are much thiner and more fragile than the one I pulled out.
Rather than solid up and down, they are arranged in a serpentine fashion
between the rows. Price of new core, radiator out of car, was $260. The
air flow through this new core seems to be substantially better than the old.
The list (Steve, Tom Hall, Tom Ballou, Dick Barker and many others,) seemed
to feel that the Ford six-blade fan was the way to go. BOY where they
right!! After an exhaustive search, I finally found one of the blades in
question (CF-09DE-A) on a business trip to the bay area (Mustang Ranch,
Sunnyvale, CA. yup.....my wife questioned that receipt!) for a hefty $100;
but he did bead-blast the thing clean. Trimming the blade to fit was a
REAL bear. I will not go into details, but I trimmed roughly 3/8" off each
blade with a jig I made on my table saw. Scared me half to death. (glad
the reinforced blade held up!) I would suggest to others who wish to add
this blade that they do as Steve did: take it to a machine shop. I was
however very careful and believe I trimmed accruately and kept the blade in
balance.
Clearance with this set-up is a problem. A restoration specialist friend
(Randy Zoller - British Heritage Motorsports) suggested covering the
radiator with cardboard on the reinstall as the new fins are VERY fragile.
I went one step further and used masonite.....and am glad I did. Though
the new radiator is thinner than the original, it still required real
wedging to get it past the new modified fan blade. Clearance after
installation between fan and radiator is now about 1 inch.
Who knows, maybe just the addition of this six-blade fan would have made
all of the difference. It moves a helluva lot of air, and does so quietly.
The initial test results are real impressive. Most of the results I will
note are with ambient temperature between 67 and 72 degrees.....it is
beginning to cool off hear in San Diego. On the first running of the
system after putting this whole thing back together, it took nearly 20
minutes at fast then slow idle to get the car to warm-up to 190 degrees, as
noted on the stock temp gauge. (Fluke meter showed 175 degrees at intake
manifold near temp sender, but that may need calibration too.) When I took
the car out for the first run, I was amazed to be able to watch the temp
drop from 190 to 170 on the gauge after about a 1 mile run at about 35-40
mph average. After correcting a minor lower hose leak after this run last
Sunday night, I once again took the car out Monday afternoon (ambient 75
degrees) and with in-town driving, could not get the car much above 175
degrees. Last evening was the final test with consistently high RPMs and
very aggressive accelerations and driving. With constant driving, the car
NEVER went above 170, even with consistent running at 4500 RPM with peaks
to 6K in frequent bursts.
Thanks one and all to the list for their suggestions. I think I have found
the solution I have been looking for. I am now considering changing the
old 165 degree thermostat with a 180, only because the car runs better
between 180 and 200 degrees. I now have the ability to augment my temp
with the simple option of changing out the thermosat, and kept the "highly
modified original" look in the engine compartment. And did so for what I
consider to be a cheap $360 bucks.
Next modification project, converting from generator to alternator. No, I
will look on the web-site FIRST, and ask questions when, inevitablly I
will, get into trouble.
I really cannot thank the Tiger list enough for thier help in this matter.
I would highly suggest the afore mentioned modifications. All my tests
today indicate it works!! Sorry for the long post......my verbosity is
showing! (8-{)>
Regards
Allan
B9472373
PS.....Thanks to Norm for opening his door to riff-raff after hours,
showing me the cars I missed from TU, signing his book and putting up with
my silly-assed questions.
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