1) The radiator works. Jerry ??? in Orlando put one in and you can't
wipe the smile off his face.
I don't know if it fits without a hassle. Jerry had already made
"adjustments" to his car.
2) My personnel opinions:
The 160 thermostat gives you more time before melt down. When I stop
at a light I want to start at 170 verses 200.
Also, all this discussion about the fluid going too fast is out of
hand. Heat transfer rate in the engine is mostly dependent on
temperature differential and surface area i.e.. A*(T1-T2) where "A" is
the surface area, T1 is the engine block temperature, and T2 is the
fluid temperature. In the block you will transfer more heat if the
spread between T1 & T2 is higher ( We can't do much to change the
surface area inside the block). There are other factors which effect
the heat transfer rate - but the big one is temperature differential.
The slower the fluid moves the more its temperature approaches the block
temperature and the less heat transfer. The faster the fluid moves the
greater the temperature differential and the faster the heat transfer.
There are some boundary layer effects but they only really make a
difference if the flow changes type (laminar verses turbulent ect.) and
intuitively I don't feel that's the case. Specific to the change in
thermostats, they are only open or closed and the flow rate is the same
when either is open. Changing thermostats doesn't necessarily change
the flow rate just when flow is allowed. Some thermostats have larger
passages and may effect flow rate - but not by much since all are
designed to be non-restrictive when open.
Most people agree that limiting factor in the Tiger is the
radiator and its ability to transfer heat into the air. In the radiator
the process is about the same as above - the higher the temperature
difference between the air and coolant - the more faster the heat
transfer. Now I can here some of you saying that based on what I wrote
above the coolant temperature coming from the block may be too cool to
get a good heat transfer rate. If that crossed your mind, drop it. No
one (in the summer) has ever complained about the cooling system as a
whole staying too cool so lets just assume that the coolant in the
radiator is plenty hot. The problem arises when the air around the
radiator gets to hot because it is not flowing fast enough or......
something is blocking the heat for getting trough the radiator wall
(i.e. paint, oil, rust). . The new radiator above works because it has
more surface to dissipate the heat, a variable not available to us in
the block.
Here are some simple things to do to help cooling:
Remove paint, dirt, oil, badges, lights, oil coolers, transmission
coolers, horns ect. from in front of the radiator or it's surface. You
might as well stick a pillow in your cats mouth!
Drain, flush, flush, flush and refill the radiator with 20%-30% anti
freeze. Anti freeze doesn't have the specific heat capacity of water so
add the minim recommended amount to lubricate the water pump and prevent
rust. Add a wetting solution to the water (available at most autoparts
stores). These solutions can help at that mysterious boundary layer,
mentioned above, by helping the water attach to the coolant channel
walls and reducing sudsing.
Install the ford 6 bladed fan.
Set you timing to the recommended advance.
Don't drive during the day and never stop moving.
3) The 2.88 rear will spoil your fun. You will bog on launch. A 3.07
and a wide ratio tranny are a good street compromise.
> ----------
> From: Allan Connell[SMTP:alcon@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 1997 2:18 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: OOPPS! The Hot Motor Bit Again
>
> OK Team, now that we have dispensed with all of the other stuff,
> thought
> I'd bring up the slightly warm 260 issue again (Oh, NO!!)
>
> Anyway, (pay attention engineers, particularly the
> hydro-thermalconductance
> types....) with this sudden rash of warm temperatures down here near
> the
> border, my Tigger has been running a might Warm lately. Gets up
> around
> 220-230 degress in about a half hour of driving with roughly 100
> degrees
> ambient outside. Fortunately, NO expulsion of fluid, so according to
> the
> best minds around here, I am technically NOT overheating....but if I
> fun it
> much longer, I think I will. Note that faulty (Fawlty?) non-stock and
> less
> than accurate mechanical gauge has been replaced with a bit more
> accurate
> stock gauge through the good graces and great charm of one Dick
> Barker.
> Yep, I tested it with my Fluke and it appears quite accurate.
>
> 1) Cullen Bennet (or is it Bennet Cullen?? either way, I
> appologize....)
> has suggested that he gets good results from a custom Aluminium
> radiator
> built by a friend of his....anyone had a similar experience? And
> Cullen,
> if I order one of these $480 beauties from this guy, will it fit??
> Current
> radiator is three row (I think) with two tubes followed by one, and
> then
> two again. The current radiator fits fight up next to the rack and
> pinion....there just ain't no more room!
>
> 2) Acquaintances smarter and better looking than myself (yeah, but _I_
> have
> the Tiger!) have suggested that I need a thermostat with a higher
> rating.
> That is to say that I replaced the previous thermostat with the same
> type.
> Though the manual calls for a 195 degree thermostat, I replaced the
> old one
> with the same 160 rated thermostat that I found in there. Seems some
> of
> these geniuses think that the water/glycol combo (50/50) does not get
> to
> say in the radiator long enough to be able to adequately cool the
> stuff....just races right through....don't know about this and would
> like
> all opinions....expletives must be included with any reference to my
> family
> lineage or breading.
>
> 3) Finally, I am not looking for miracles: what I would like to be
> able to
> do is to get the beast to run in that 190-210 degree range that Tom
> Hall
> and others have indicated as optimum (yeah, I trust Tom more than
> Ford.....). One final thing I am planning on is to convert the
> rear-end
> gear set BACK to a 2.88 which I think is stock....from the current
> 3.63 (?)
> This in and of it self might make a slight difference in operating
> temperature.....but the REAL question is, what do you all thing about
> performance???? Will I still be able to make the kids driving the
> rice
> burners cry, put thier hats back on forward and pull their pants up
> where
> they belong when I blow their doors off??? Huh??? will I, HUH????
>
> Sincerely appreciate your putting up the with annoyance of such innane
> requests, after all, I know you all would rather be talking about TU
> and
> goose poop....
>
> All kidding aside, thanks in advance for your opinions and shared
> wisdom.
>
> Regards,
>
> Allan
> B9472373
>
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