Answer for #2 below: Don't use the lock nuts for the initial
assembly. Use another nut that does not have the ny-lock in it. This
way the press fit of the tapered ball joint shaft will hold while you
torque the bolt, then remove that nut and replace it with the new
ny-lock nut and torque it to the correct specs.
Rich
> ----------
> From:
> MIKE_RAPOZA@HP-Roseville-om2.om.hp.com[SMTP:MIKE_RAPOZA@HP-Roseville-o
> m2.om.hp.com]
> Reply To: MIKE_RAPOZA@HP-Roseville-om2.om.hp.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 1997 11:57 AM
> To: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Misc. questions
>
> Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
> Hello All,
>
> I'm currently in the final stages of reassembling
> my 66Tiger 1A, (which I bought in a basket case condition)
> and have several questions that I'm sure most of you can
> help me along with.
>
> I have the shop manual, but there is nothing better than
> hearing from owners and what they have done / used.
>
> 1) What type of oil is best for 4 speed top-loader
> transmission? How much (pints) is required ?
>
> 2) I've replaced both upper and lower ball joints on the
> front end, they come with nuts that have plastic
> lock off's at the very end. The problem that I'm
> having is when the thread reaches this portion of the
> nut, the ball joint threaded shaft spins and I can't
> torque down the nut properly. Any suggestions ??
>
> 3) I've also took off and cleaned up and now replaced
> the rubber boots on the steering assembly. I would
> like to replace the fluid in the rack + pinion
> assembly since its probably very old stuff in there.
> What type of fluid ? And how much ?
>
> Any help at all would be much appreciated. I was hoping
> to complete the car by Hot August Nights weekend, but
> I think I will be off by several weeks.
>
> Mike Rapoza
> Roseville, Ca.
> MK1A 1966
> B382000918
>
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