At 02:40 pm 7/6/97 GMT, you wrote:
>Jim,
>I saw you response to the fellow who asked about Lincoln rear ends. I was
>intrigued to see that some one is actually doing what I have wanted to do
>for years. Turn an Apline into a drag racer! At least that's what I assume
>when I see "straight line stuff". I have been computer modeling my dream car
>for some time now. I am going to use a small block (302) rather that the 460
>cubic inch monster, but I will have a Vortec R series blower (15 psi boost).
>Etc, etc, etc. I am interested in your experiences with tubbing the car,
>subframe, firewall mods and anything else you might wish to pass along to
>me. I keep looking at the NHRA rules and see that the minimum wheelbase for
>competition is 90 inches - did you extend your wheel base? How, if so?. What
>did you do with the front suspension? Or is it "stock". I will be using a C4
>- what tranny are you using? What size tires? I am planning on using 10
>slicks, 29.5 inches in diameter. Goodyear told me that I could expect a 1
>inch growth due to wheel speed, so I will be trying to use tubs that are 36
>inches or smaller. I too will use a shortened 9 inch rear with a spool, but
>my simulations show that I will get both max speed and top end with a gear
>ratio of approximately 3.73:1 using the C4 (simulations show 7.3 elapsed
>time and around 175 mph trap speeds - yeow!).
>
>Since I am now an "older retired guy" (55), I have the time and inclination
>to begin my project. I own a Tiger Mark I (for 31 years now) and used to
>race it as a member of the Ford Drag Club (mid 60's) but do not want to
>thrash it again. Now where do I find a reasonable Alpine sacrifice?
>
>I hope to hear from you and what you've done in your project..As I get
>started I'll keep everyone informed also.
>
>L.E. Mayfield
>124 Maximillion Drive
>Madison, Al. 35758-8171
>205-837-1051
>
>DrMayf@AOL.com
>mayfield@traveller.com <<<<preferred
>
>"Thought is the software of the mind;
>rational thought is bug free!"
>
Lawrence,
One of the major problems I had was the tubs. The Alpine just
doesn't have much space for tall tires even with everything stripped out
except for the actual fenders. Assuming you want to keep the top of the
rear fender stock shaped. Also there is limited space forward of the
rear axle. I now have 3" from the rear corner of the door to the front
surface of the tub. The tub is welded to the numerous sheet metal
pieces that exist within this area. Had to punch holes and do rosette
welding to make the connections between the tub and the body pieces
(after I did a lot of cutting on the body pieces behind the door). Could
use another couple of inches clearance, but it is too late now. I fabricated
the tub from flat stock. It is difficult to match the tub to the inner wall
of the fender. The tub top is 1" down from the top surface of the fender
at a point about 17" back from the door line at the top. As I stated before,
the new homemade rear frames are 39" outside to outside. the frames are
made of 1/16" steel welded into about 2" square box shape. The tubs are
also welded full length to the inside of the frames. The tubs change from
circular to flat as they enter the previous gas tank area. Sort of a tear drop
shape extending into the trunk.
The coil
springs are adjustable like a NASCAR. There is a 2"long nut welded
within the frame directly over where the spring will go. A 3/4" all-thread
with a upper spring retainer is threaded through the nut. Adjusting the
length of the all-thread will allow me to change ride height or bias one
side as required. The upper spring retainer is a 1/4" thick disk 4 1/2"
dia. with a center hole for the all-thread (with 3/4" of threads machined off)
Two 3/8 "U" shapes are welded at right angles to fit within the spring.
A 1/8" hole through the end of the threaded rod holds a cotter pin
that keeps the upper spring retainer from falling off when I remove the
springs. I back up the spring retainer with a nut on the top side (under
the frame) and lock the 3/4" adjusting rod with another nut on top of the
frame. The frame has extra internal diagonial re-enforcement as well.
The front end now has Lincoln Spindles and ball joints as well as the huge
Lincoln disks and calipers. Modified the "A" Arms to take the Ball Joints.
The Upper A arm is relocated much higher than the original setup to give the
proper gemotery. The Upper A arm mount is welded to the new 2" by 3"
steel tubing front frames. The frames are much wider than the original
to allow more room up front. The firewall is moved back flush with
the raised sheet metal rain lip ( about 1 1/2" from the rear edge of the
hood). The inner fenders were modified to match the firewall and the
wider frames. ( Lot of sheet metal fabrication and welding required).
The transmission is a later model 4 speed top loader with a Hurst Shifter.
I modified the firewall for dual master cylinders with a balance bar linkage
so I can adjust brake front/rear bias. I want this thing to stop as well as go.
Used the original Alpine steering arms ( swapped to opposite sides) and
fabricated / welded some steel blocks to the Linclon spindle to bolt them on
similar to the Tiger design for steering arm attachment.
Major modifications to the Alpine cross member to attempt to provide
a rack and pinion steering that has proper Ackerman angles. ( still working
this along with bump steer) Still not satisified with my design on the
steering.
At the moment there is no floor in the Alpine. I am considering building a
roll
cage before I do the floor. (Finally got the proper tool (as a gift) to cut
fish
mouths in the cage tubing.)
Mean while I have to work for a living as well as fix another Alpine, my Tiger,
and my daughter's various cars and pay the Palm Beach University. I wish I
could afford to retire next year at 55 and work on cars.
Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others ( only had Tiger II for 28 years)
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