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Re: Tach and Rust Advice, Please

To: SDeane7000@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tach and Rust Advice, Please
From: Tom Hall <modtiger@engravers.com>
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 00:32:26 -0700 (PDT)
At 10:04 PM 6/17/97 -0400, you wrote:
>Hello again,
>
>Have I stumped you guys or did my first message end up in the bit-bucket?
>
>I just purchased a MK II and would like some advice from the experts.
>
>First, I would like manufacturers/model #s for an accurate and possibly peak
>storing tach that fits the dash with no modification.  Also desirable is
>something that looks similar to the stock unit as this is the only deviation
>I want to make from the otherwise pristine Tiger. 

        This requirement cannot be met with anything on the market that I
have seen.  The diameter of the hole in the dash is larger than most
aftermarket Tach instruments.  If you want a similar face appearance, be
prepared to pay for a custom face on your choice of instruments.  This is
what I would do.

 My engine is the original
>289 but is pretty tweeked (revs very quickly) and I'd rather be on the
>cautious side.  I've already broken a stock screw-in rocker stud and
>installed a set of ARPs.  I don't want to repeat this experience or, heaven
>forbid, do worse damage!  Maybe I'll go back to the stock tach (that I'll
>calibrate to the new one) after I become more familiar with the car.

        Buy an electronic rev limiter or an ignition system that has one
built in to it.  

>Secondly, some rust advice.  One area of the car that was missed during
>restoration (twice) was the driver side floor boards.  Several thumb sized
>holes were hiding under the jute moisture-holding sponge material.  Surgery
>will cure the major damage, but I'm curious what chemical warfare should be
>launched on the remaining surface rust before painting and what rust
>inhibitor paint would be best (Hammerite?).

        I like Phosphoric acid based solutions (Metal Prep or Navel Jelly)
to remove rust.  You will have to wear respiratory protection and
neutralize  the areas treated along with a through rinse.  Since the area
will not be visible, "Extend" will give you a acid based rubber coating.
Over this, an asphaltic coating will give good protection,  and roofing
adhesives will bond the heavy impregnated paper.  Paul Reisentz
(plrresto@aol.com) has a kit with these pieces available already die cut.


        Tom Hall

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