The stock Electronic tachs are great indicators of ignition
troubles. If the car runs rough, and the tach is eradic, so is your
spark whichis why its running rough. Recomend that you go through your
ignition system carefully. DO it when HOT, but wear gloves. Check to
see if the points are moving smoothly and are not binding. Make sure
the point cam is lubricated properly (check your manual). Check all the
wiring Now very soft from the heat tugging gently on every
connection...bla bla bla. Also check the point gap when real hot, This
CAN and WILL change and will give erratic timing if they are .."just"
barely opening. Since the tach is affected by the spark wires or plugs,
you can skip those for the moment. concentrate on the distributer and
connection at the coil. This is where the tach gets its signal. It
realy is a great diagnostic tool.
I put electronic Tachs in every car/ truck I have ever owened.
They have saved me many hours of troubleshooting time. My old Dodge
truck had a SUN SuperTach // (my personal favortie for aftermarket
tachs), and it went dead one day along with the engine while driving.
Turning the key on and off made the tach bounce as normal so I knew it
had power, but there was no signal from the engine. I reached into the
glove box a got my backup electronic ignition module (a must have for
chrysler owner since they are only about $6 at most autoparts stores,
the same with the electronic regulator), and made a quick swap with two
screws on the firewall, and it started right up, and was on my way again
inside of 5 minutes. Needless to say, I consider them a valuable tool.
Rich
> ----------
> From: Ken Tisdale[SMTP:ktisdale@ix.netcom.com]
> Reply To: Ken Tisdale
> Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 1997 1:15 PM
> To: Bennett Cullen
> Cc: tigers@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [RE]: Aluminum Radiators
>
> Bennett,
>
> I am looking at adding an electric fan to keep air moving thru the
> engine compartment after engine shut down. What I've noticed is after
> the car has run at temp, and I shut it down, I have:
> 1) problems starting up - seems like the heat build up affects the
> carb.
>
> 2) Engine runs rough till it gets back down to its usual 205 - 210
> degrees - believe that the built up heat affects the distributor also;
> the tach readings are really off until the engine temp gets back down.
>
> Any recommendations? 1965 '2096 Tiger, 289, custom radiator, Holley 4
> barrel.
>
>
> Bennett Cullen wrote:
> >
> > >Date: Tue, 27 May 97 10:24:00 PDT
> > >From: Roland Dudley <cobra@cdc.hp.com>
> > >Subject: New Aluminum Radiators (was: Remember???)
> > >
> > >
> > >Since I'm just about ready to order one of these custom built
> > >super-zoomy aluminium competition radiators for my Cobra, I'd sure
> be
> > >interested in some informed comment on this before blowing some big
> > >time bucks.
> > >
> > >Roland
> >
> > Roland,
> > My experience with the aluminum radiator built by Ron Davis (in
> Phoenix) has
> > been wonderful. I went from a two row stock radiator that boiled
> over at
> > every opportunity, to a cool running car, to which I have just added
> air
> > conditioning with no problems. The new radiator was built to the
> same
> > footprint as the original, but was a 2 row (1"x 1/16" tubes). It is
> about
> > 3/4" thicker than the original. With everything else kept the same,
> I now
> > run 170 degrees with a 165 degree thermostat. The highest that I
> have seen
> > is 205 on a 109 degree day in traffic and no air. With the addition
> of the
> > air conditioner (std install - with condenser out front) it still
> runs 190
> > on the highway in 104 degree ambient. I did put an electric fan out
> front of
> > everything as a manual backup. I have not had reason to turn it on
> yet. The
> > one big addition was the fabrication of a lower half fan shroud that
> makes a
> > closed cavity behind the radiator. Ron said that it is essential for
> any
> > radiator to work effectively. If there is no low pressure area
> behind the
> > radiator the air will not flow properly and it will not cool as well
> as it
> > can. I am very happy with mine. I am also running a six blade rigid
> fan.
> >
> > Cullen Bennett in Tempe Arizona (B9472658)
>
> --
> Ken Tisdale Sr. Sales Engineer
> Pulsecom 303-403-1968
> ktisdale@ix.netcom.com FAX: 303-432-8967
> kentis@pulse.com
>
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