At 07:26 PM 5/27/97 -0500, you wrote:
>Mr. Hall, Tom...
>
>You were gracious enough to tell one of our kind that a Centerforce Clutch
>was an excellent way to replace the Tiger's system. Well, it is now time for
>me to replace mine and your information is invaluable. But, you could save
>me some time and phone calls if you could remember the specific part or
>model numbers for both the pressure plate and disk. Do you think this system
>would be ok for a hopped up 289 (heads ported, polished, 11.5 comp, 310
>degree cam at base circle, etc..). Also, in a really previous post you said
>that you had changed to a McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing rather than the
>tried and true unit. Could you tell me what that part number, model number
>is? And what kinds of problems did you have in routing the supply and bleed
>lines into o\and out of the bell-housing ( I have a Wedge 5 bolt cast steel
>NHRA approved scattershield)??? Did you also change the clutch master
>cylinder? Doesn't it have "English" threads for the outlet pipe? Vs good ol'
>American for the McLeod unit? Also, did you have to do anything to the front
>of the tranny such as replace the throwout bearing sleeve?
>
>I sure would appreciate any help. And even though I have owned my Tiger for
>31 years I still have alot to learn...
>
>ps. any thought on how to re-aling the windshield? I replaced all of the
>rubber goods but have not yet been able to get it all to fit again...
>L.E. Mayfield
>DrMayf@AOL.com
>mayfield@traveller.com
>
>"Thought is the software of the mind;
>rational thought is bug free!"
Dear Larry,
My numbers might not be appropriate for your application but your
local speed shop type supplier should be able to assemble the appropriate
part numbers for your application. My application was to fit a late 5.0
engine, and bell housing to a T-5 tranny. You need to know if you have the
10.0/10.5 Dia holes on the flywheel, or the 11 inch variety. You also need
to know if the flywheel is drilled for the Long style (3 groups of two
holes) or the 6 evenly spaced holes. from that, your supplier should be
able to guide you to the "correct" p/n for the Pressure plate and disc.
I made a plate to fit and close the rectangular hole for the throw
out arm. Both hoses pass through this plate. With the scatter shield, you
will have an easier time with installation since you likely have the 2
piece with the removeable bottom. this gives you access and visibility
that the one piece units don't have. The McLeod T/O bearing is designed to
fit on the stock retainer with a tubular spacer for adjustment. I
recommend changing the O-ring fittings at the inlet and outlet of the T/O
cylinder to solid inflexible elbows. They won't develop leaks as quickly
as the original pieces. They're more work to install, but leaks are a
giant pain in the butt.
I tried several master cylinders and found to my amazement the
stock unit was "perfect". The threads on almost all Girling and other
brake and hydraulic fittings are threaded 3/8-24. They may have a inverted
flare or a dome head flare like the tiger. Simply use any of the common
"stainless steel" adapters to get to the 45 degree AN style connectors.
They will seal to the 3/8-24 threaded ports using either solid aluminum,
copper or "stat-O-seal" O-ring washers. From that point you can use either
high pressure brake line or the braided stainless teflon hose and
appropriate fittings. Stay away from aluminum fittings except for hose
ends. The cast anodized fittings are too brittle for hydraulic service.
I also use silicone fluids since I don't do any serious track racing. It
sure saves the paint. Remeber to plumb the bleed valve from the top of the
T/O cylinder and run it to an accessable area. Capturing the bleed
receiver fitting is appropriate so that you can bleed the system with one
wrench.
To obtain the proper windshield alignment I made some new custom
nuts for the rear frame L-bolts. Began by re-threading these L-bolts down
to the weld attachment points of the frame, I made some tubular nuts with a
washer head. The washer fits at the top and is sized so that it won't pass
through the tubes in the body. The bottom is formed into a hex shape at
3/8" as I remember. When you install the frame, the long nuts go into the
body tubes. Their short enough that they don't stick out the bottoms of
the tubes. Using a thin wall deep socket, the special washer-nuts are
adjusted to give the proper angle to the windshield. Trial and error is
required cause everything moves a little when you tighten the hold down
nuts, but at least you are in control of the final position.
I hope this info is of help.
Tom Hall
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