At 08:20 pm 5/21/97 -0500, you wrote:
>I've got to replace my clutch, and I have a couple of questions.:
>
>Can the clutch be removed without removing the engine? If so, is the
procedure documented
>somewhere?
>
>What should I use for a replacement?
>
>Joe
>
>
Joe,
I replaced my clutch and pressure plate once without removing the
engine. I don't recommend it! I removed the driveshaft, shifter, speedometer
cable, slave cylinder, transmission mount as well as the bell housing bolts
and then forced the transmission back as far as I could. The motor
was held up with a jack. It was a real pain and took longer than it takes
to go ahead and pull the motor/transmission as a set. If you do this,
just kick yourself for not draining the transmission first. Dri-its or
kitty litter is a required product if you change the clutch.
If you have an
open bottom bell housing then maby it would ease the problem, but
my Tiger II had a closed bottom. Recommend that you pull motor
and transmission out. Remove the flywheel and have it turned or
if you have the bucks, replaced with a steel aftermarket flywheel.
Replace the transmission snout if it is the least bit worn from the
throw out bearing. Replace the front bearing in the transmission
while you are at it. Use new Flywheel bolts. Be sure to use Locktite
#271 on the flywheel bolts and tork the bolts to specifications.
This is also the time to replace the ring gear if it is worn. The ring gear
will come off if you heat it with a torch and tap it with a hammer.
Heat the new ring gear ( a kitchen oven at 450 degrees is ok) and
cool the flywheel in th refigitor. Slip the hot ring gear on quickly
and streight. Gloves are optional to prevent 3rd degree burns.
Use locktite on the new pressure plate bolts. Buy a plastic simulated
transmission shaft to locate the clutch disk as you tighten the pressure
plate bolts. Don't forget to replace the bronze bushing in the end of the
crankshaft. To remove the old one just fill the hole with grease and
use a punch that fits the hole. Drive the punch into the hole with
a big hammer and the grease will force the old bushing out. You may
be able to find a special tool to remove the bushing or use big sheet
metal screws screwed into the bronze to pry on. Just don't mess up
the hole in the flywheel.
While you are at it change the rear bushing and seal in the transmission.
A proper tool is needed to remove and replace the bushing.
Replace your U joints while you are at it as the drive shaft is already
out for the clutch change.
My Tiger had a " Long" type clutch; There are many options for
replacement. Be sure the throw out bearing matches the clutch
style. If you have any back trouble be warned that a Long clutch
without counter weights, such as a Hays racing clutch will take
a lot of extra leg/back power to disengage.
Sorry that the above recommendations are not in order as I did not edit
this letter. If you can't figure out the sequence then you should pay
someone to replace the clutch.
Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others.
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