Hi Eric
< I am having a really hard time figuring out the problem with my right
<side turn signals. The left side works fine but the right doesn't do a
<thing. As the workshop manual directed I crossed the left and right
<terminals and all four flashers lit. This indicates a bad flasher unit
<which I replaced and installed. The right side still doesn't work. If I
<cross the left and right terminals at the flasher switch now just the right
<side indicators light. As far as I can tell all of the proper connections
<under the dash are made. I'm thinking that the problem is inside of the
<wiring harness but I don't understand what exactly can be wrong since the
<right side indicators will flash when the terminals are crossed but nothing
<happens when just the flasher lever is moved.
<....
<Eric
<'66 Series V
I agree with Jay. I think you have a bad turn signal switch. Probably
just a dirty contact. Try electronic contact cleaner (from Radio Shack)
on the contacts and burnishing with a $1 bill. Do NOT use a file.
Lucas actually expected us to do some maintaince to our electrics..
Mabey the conection to the right side wire.
The resistance through the switch should be way under an ohm when
turned on.
Because so many others were mentioning the front lamp ground I dug out this
article I wrote a while ago...
ADD A REAL GROUND WiRE.
Failure of the turn signals is common on the series IV and V
Alpines and late Tigers. The usual cause is a poor ground return
connection at the front lamp.
This is due to Lucas's failure to provide a proper ground
connection. The circuit depends on the mounting screws making a
good electrical connection from the chrome body of the lamp to
the "Timmerman" nut and them to the steel fender. Any corrosion
in the path will keep the lamp off. To top it off this is all
done with a mounting screw that is tightened against the plastic
lens and only peripherally contacts the chrome lamp body as it
passes through a clearance hole. Its a wonder it ever works.
Often all that is required is to loosen and retighten the
mounting screws, or possibly disassemble the mount and clean all
the surfaces. There should be much less than one ohm resistance
from the chrome lamp body to the battery negative terminal. Be
careful not to over tighten the mounting screws lest the plastic
lens crack...
A much more robust solution is to add a ground wire from the
chrome lamp body to the car ground. Tap a hole in the lamp body
for a #6 screw. Run a #20 or larger black wire to point where
the headlight is grounded. It is near the bonnet hinge.
Thoughtfully Roots left a spare hole.. Use a solder lug at the
lamp body and a "bullet" connector at the ground end. There is
plenty of room for the screw head in the rubber mounting spacer.
Ocassionally the slide in contacts for the running light bulb
severly corrode. This occurs when moisture has gotten into the
lamp assembly due to a cracked lens. The lamp fixture can be
salvaged using one of the replacement pop-in the hole lamp holders
available at most parts stores. Drill out the old contacts
(1/2" hole I think), and just pop it in. Be sure to moisture
seal the assembly. The replacement bulb holder should have its
own ground return wire which will ground the chrome turn signal
body.
It has been a long time since I did this mod so forgive me the
details.. But for the last 14 years my turn signals have been
reliable and I have had no trouble with cracking lenses.
RE the flasher not blinking...its not a bug.. its a feature.
It tells you its time to clean the connections... or
that a bulb is blown...
Steve F
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Steve Finberg W1GSL w1gsl@mit.edu
PO Box 397082 MIT Br Cambridge MA 02139-7082 617 258 3754
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