> -I haven't checked thoroughly, but does the TIGER Shop manual give the +/-
> callouts on min./max. dimensions for inside master-cylinder and
>wheel-cylinder
> I.D. to provide proper braking after rebuilding?
>
> -I own a couple different sets of brake hones, is this the way to go on a
>TIGER
> brake rebuild (clutch too) or is it simpler and easier to buy new master
> cylinders(both are "weeping" a little bit now)?
>
When I redid the snake's hydraulics a few years back I consulted a local
Brit car mechanic about rebuilding the master and slave cylinders. His
advice was to not bother; however the reasons might not apply to a
Tiger, at least not to the brake master and rear wheel cylinders.
A Cobra has three independent master cylinders. The two brake MCs are
identical 5/8" bore aluminum Girlings and the clutch is a .7" bore
aluminum Girling. The clutch slave is a 7/8" bore aluminum Girling
(identical to the Tiger). The mechanic told me that aluminum cylinders
1) require a special hone because standard hones take off too much
metal, 2) rebuilds on them don't usually last very long.
After getting astronomical price quotes from the usual snake suppliers
I considered having them re-sleeved by White Post. At the time that
would have cost $50/each. Rebuild kits were something like $15-$20/ea.
But this same mechanic suggested I check out a local race supplier (Frey
Racing in Mountain View) to see what they had. Sure enough, they had
all three master cylinders in stock, brand new for $60/ea. And Sunbeam
Specialties had the slave for around $80. A classic no-brainer.
I did have to rebuild all four calipers, including replacing the
pistons. I bought stainless steel, mostly from a generic supplier, but
some of the ones for the rear calipers were only available from one of
the snake parts outfit. The price for these was nearly double that for
the rest.
Roland
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