An important thing to note here is that a good Ethylene (or better yet
Polyethylene) Glycol antifreeze is a real block/rad/heater saver. Up here
where nights are long, women strong and men (usually) wrong in the Winter we
have few problems with blockage, as long as everything is flushed out once
in a while. I had a car from the sunshine belt that bust a rad hose while I
was driving and the coolant that sprayed out put the best coat of red-oxide
primer you ever saw through my entire engine compartment! That rust-paint
was next to impossible to remove. Using good antifreeze (50-50 mix with
distilled water) eliminates that, gives you a higher boiling point in Summer
and adds helpful lubrication to your water pump.
Norm from Calgary
----------
=>|From: tigers-owner
=>|To: STEPHEN SALATA USAET(UTC -04:00)
=>|Cc: tigers
=>|Subject: Re: Anti-cavitation Water Pump
=>|Date: June 6, 1996 11:37
=>|
=>|Here are some BIG headache ideas to consider:
=>|
=>|1> Have you considered the cooland passages in the block/head? If the
=>|passages are so restricted with build up, crud, chewing gum or whatever
=>|that the cooland can't adequately flow through the block then you are
going
=>|to have hot spots and inadequate cooling because the coolant will only be
=>|flowing through the principal passages. Do you hear _deep_ rumbling from
=>|the bowls of your motor arter shutting it down (think of it as severe GI
=>|distress after that pizza & beer assalt on your ulcer). Could be your
=>|coolant being boiled at the hot spots.
=>|
=>|2> If your head gaskets aren't the correct ones or aren't installed
=>|correctly then you could be presented with blocked passages as well.
=>|
=>|3> If your motor was rebuilt and the rebuilder didn't take the extra time
=>|after hot tanking the block to insure all the water passages were clear
of
=>|casting sand or other debris in the block-- again blocked passages.
=>|
=>|4> Or perhaps a freeze plug or two were pushed into the block and left
=>|there rather than being pulled out and thrown away-- again same problem.
=>|
=>|5> On an easier note, if your motor has a blanket of accumulated
=>|grease/oil, etc from the years of being rode hard and put away wet you
are
=>|making it wear a parka in the summer time.
=>|
=>|6> Oil is a lubricant and reduces friction. Friction produces heat.
=>|Anything we need to think about here?
=>|
=>|7> Sounds like you have done the radiator considerations but remember,
the
=>|coolant has to be in the radiator long enough for the heat contained in
the
=>|coolant to be transferred to the radiator itself. That's why running
=>|without a thermostat isn't a good idea.
=>|
=>|8> Sounds dumb but check to insure your radiator hoses aren't blocked.
=>|I've seen hoses that look good when inspected from the outside but have
=>|delaminated on the inside creating a flap that opens up and blocks the
flow
=>|of coolant when trying to circulate, but returns to the interior lining
=>|position of the hose when there is no circulation. Pull the hoses and do
a
=>|_careful_ interior inspection for interior delamination.
=>|
=>|9> Have you actually checked to see if you have an adequate FLOW of
=>|coolant through the radiator? If not it could point you in the right
=>|direction of the problem.
=>|
=>|10> You DO have a header tank on your car, don't you? It's the
=>|"overflow" type looking metal bottle at the front left corner of the
=>|engine bay.
=>|
=>|Know what you are going to do this weekend?
=>|
=>|Darrell
=>|
=>|
=>|
|