DM,
I just use a later model dual master, ATE Blue fluid, Hawk blue pads, later
model rear brake set up with Winner's Circle kevlar lined shoes... and don't
use the brakes much. (I get 10 races out of a set of pads...)
Nothing wrong at all with the set up you describe though...
I've been successfully rebuilding master and wheel cylinders for almost 30
years. If they're shot, have them re-sleeved.
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: David Mumford <dmumf@hotmail.com>
To: <team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 3:52 PM
Subject: Technical Question
> Hello Everyone-
>
> I have quietly enjoyed both the Team Thicko list and the Spridget list for
a
> while now, but now I have a question:
>
> I am rebuilding a '60 Bugeye for vintage racing, and am currently working
on
> the brake hydraulics. I need to replace the original single line master
> cylinder with a dual circuit system.
>
> When I bought the car, I got a competition pedal box in a box of spare
> parts. It consists of a traditional Lockheed clutch master cylinder on
the
> left side, and two Girling (625?) brake master cylinders attached to a
bias
> adjustment bar. This is nearly identical to the diagram I have seen in the
> Carroll Smith book "Prepare to Win."
>
> All of the master cylinders are shot from years of sitting around, but I
am
> curious to find out if anyone else has a similar set-up. The other
obvious
> alternative, is to use a MC from a later model car, and not worry about
the
> brake bias adjustment. Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
> Also, I am not too familiar with Girling MC's, but are they available, and
> where? Thanks for all of your help.
>
> Dave Mumford
>
> PS. WST, congrats on the British Car write-up. It is always good to see
> familiar names in the magazine.
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