Larry,
I'll have to check to see what the stock hub sleeve is... I gave my last one
away at the track, including the box... doh!
That will solve your problem, though.
WST
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry & Sandi Miller <millerls@ado13.com>
To: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>; Thickos
<team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>; vintage race list
<vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 8:57 PM
Subject: Re: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip
> WST
>
> Thanks for the info. Would the Speedi-Sleeve number CR 99172 also be
> correct when using a stock hub? I've developed an oil leak down the back
> side of the backing plate after about 1500 miles on new seals. I'm
assuming
> that when I tear it down I will discover that the axle is the problem and
> will have to sleeve it.
>
> Larry Miller
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wm. Severin Thompson <wsthompson@thicko.com>
> To: Thickos <team-thicko@autox.team.net>; <spridgets@autox.team.net>;
> vintage race list <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 4:59 PM
> Subject: Sprite rear hub seal solution tech tip
>
>
> > To all,
> >
> > The Red Rat Bastard #99 was the "test mule" for what turned out to be a
> > great solution for the age old Sprite leaking double bearing hub
> situation.
> >
> > The solution? Pretty simple really. First off, the outer bearing is
> replaced
> > with a sealed bearing. There are two styles available, a steel sided,
and
> a
> > rubber sided. You want the rubber sided bearing. These are sealed for
life
> > and suitable for high speed applications. The inner bearing is hand
> packed
> > in hi-speed synthetic grease, and the inner seal rides on a
Speedi-Sleeve.
> >
> > So, the oil in the axle tube sloshes out to the axle cap under
cornering,
> > bounces off the cap, hits the sealed bearing, and can go no further. The
> > bearing packed in synthetic grease seems to motor quite happily.
> >
> > Initial tests of this setup, using a double lip seal at Road America,
> > revealed some minor seepage of grease past the seal. It turns out the
> double
> > lip seal is about 6 thousandths smaller than the single lip seal... so
the
> > seal basically fell out of the double bearing hub. I have "peened" the
> > inside of my hubs where the seal rides, and with the addition of the
> proper
> > Loctite, it should stay put. But, since it's not seeing any oil, only
> > grease, I suggest using the single lip seal because of it's larger OD.
You
> > should still glue them in.
> >
> > A word of caution... when you bend the washer behind the axle nut over
the
> > nut, be sure not to damage the rubber on the sealed bearing face.
> >
> > The Speedi-Sleeve may be a different one than you're used to seeing, but
> > there's reason for that. It rides all the way in on the axle stub, so
that
> > the only thing riding on it is the seal, not the inner bearing. The
double
> > bearing hubs inner bearing won't fit over the sleeve. When installing
the
> > Speedi-Sleeve, make sure you dress the existing axle stub surface with
> > emery cloth. Also, take the installation tool that comes with it and
throw
> > it away. Find a suitable piece of tailpipe, with the correct ID, and
> gently
> > tap the Speedi-Sleeve into place... all the way to the backing plate
area.
> > The lip on the sleeve can stay in place, if it's seated against the
back.
> >
> > Another thing, take the paper axle gaskets and the O ring, and toss them
> out
> > too. I have used the "Secret Schmoo" method successfully for about 7
years
> > of hard racing, and never had any leak from the axle caps. I am running
> > stock later model axles, not the overpriced "comp" axles being sold
these
> > days.... more on this subject later. If you are running the comp axles,
> you
> > most likely have seepage from the splines. Careful assembley with a
> gasket,
> > some schmoo, and washer should slow the flow. This works absolutely
fine
> on
> > stock hubs as well. Use Brakeclean on the hub surface and the axle cap.
> Use
> > a razor blade if necessary to scrape the axle cap clean. Use RTV
sealant,
> > (blue, black, copper... doesn't seem to matter) applied to the inner
> surface
> > of the axle cap. No gasket, no O ring. Install the axle. Use the counter
> > sunk screws (available from Winner's Circle) with the allen head rather
> than
> > slotted or Phillips. The reason is that the first one that goes on with
> the
> > axle, the short one, can be tightened again after the drum and remaining
> two
> > screws are in place. It doesn't hurt to install and torque the wheels
> right
> > away, as it makes sure everything that's being glued together is snug.
> >
> > Also, remember the "driver's side" (on a left hand steering Sprite) axle
> nut
> > is "reverse thread".
> >
> > The parts list is as follows...
> >
> > Sealed bearing SKF 6207-2RS1/C3HT51 available from Berry bearing.
> > or MRC 207-SZZ/H501 available from Winner's
> > Circle
> > There is a bearing available from NAPA that can be cross refenced to the
> > numbers above. I paid about $24-$26 from BB or WC, and about $32 from
> Napa.
> >
> > The inner bearing is the one that came with the hub, just packed in
> grease.
> >
> > The Speedi-Sleeve number is Chicago Rawhide CR 99172
> >
> > The single lip seal is Chicago Rawhide CR 17695
> > This is also available through NAPA
> >
> > You mileage may vary, objects in the mirror may be closer than they
> appear,
> > I didn't know she was 16...
> >
> > WST
> > Flounder
> > Team Thicko
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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