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I read on his website that Bugeyeguy has stayed with 7/8" brake masters
when fitting front discs and that he sees no need for a change to 3/4".
I changed to 3/4" a tandem master when I fitted front discs and Datsun
5Sp., but when I later fitted rear discs, the initial 'bite' on the pedal
went way down. If I pull up the H/brake when (foot) braking, the 'bite'
point comes right up again.
So, I now have a new 7/8" Master on the bench ready to fit, along with a
remote Servo. Will report on progress in time.
Yes, I know our cars don't need rear discs; it has been a fun (read Vanity)
project for me, that also eliminates all that trouble dealing with leaking
wheel cylinders and adjusting shoes. However, I will not negatively comment
if your choice is to keep rear drums.
On Sun 16 Jan 2022, 05:20 Rick Fisk via Spridgets, <spridgets@autox.team.ne=
t>
wrote:
> Hi Mike,
>
> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums ar=
e
> adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often
> will have to pump the pedal to get it firm.
>
> Rick
>
> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
> spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > =EF=BB=BF
> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently
> swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8"
> sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to
> actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and th=
e
> car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes dow=
n
> aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can'=
t
> understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts
> like there is still air in the system. Any ideas?
> > Mike MacLean
> > ------------------------
> >
> > spridgets@autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> ------------------------
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">I read on his website that Bugeyeguy has stayed with 7/8&=
quot; brake masters when fitting front discs and that he sees no need for a=
change to 3/4".<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">I change=
d to 3/4" a tandem master when I fitted front discs and Datsun 5Sp., b=
ut when I later fitted rear discs, the initial 'bite' on the pedal =
went way down. If I pull up the H/brake when (foot) braking, the 'bite&=
#39; point comes right up again.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=
=3D"auto">So, I now have a new 7/8" Master on the bench ready to fit, =
along with a remote Servo. Will report on progress in time.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Yes, I know our cars don't need r=
ear discs; it has been a fun (read Vanity) project for me, that also elimin=
ates all that trouble dealing with leaking wheel cylinders and adjusting sh=
oes. However, I will not negatively comment if your choice is to keep rear =
drums.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Sun 16 Jan 2022, 05:20 Rick Fisk via Spridgets, <<a href=
=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net">spridgets@autox.team.net</a>> wrote=
:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;bor=
der-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi Mike,<br>
<br>
Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master.=C2=A0 Make sure the rear =
drums are adjusted properly.=C2=A0 If the rears aren't adjusted properl=
y you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm.<br>
<br>
Rick<br>
<br>
> On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">=
spridgets@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> =EF=BB=BF<br>
> The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently s=
wapped out for disc brakes.=C2=A0 The old master was 3/4" bore with a =
7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch.=C2=A0 The new master is 7/8" i=
n both bores to actuate the calipers correctly.=C2=A0 Installation went wit=
hout a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the b=
rake pedal goes down aways before it works.=C2=A0 You can actually pump the=
pedal up a bit. We can't understand it.=C2=A0 There are no leaks and i=
t was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system.=C2=
=A0 Any ideas?<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
> ------------------------<br>
> <br>
> <a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">spridgets@autox.team.net</a><br>
> <br>
> Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel=3D"noreferrer =
noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75<br>
> <br>
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referrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridg=
ets</a>=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer n=
oreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
> <br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/s=
pridgets/refisk@chartermi.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_bla=
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><br>
<br>
------------------------<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer">spridgets@autox.team.net</a><br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets" rel=3D"norefer=
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ets/ron.corry.iol@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank=
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</blockquote></div>
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spridgets@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive
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