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Years ago I started using a retaining ring instead of the circlip and
they worked fine until I came up with what I think is a much better
solution.
I drill and tap a shallow hole in the cylinder and drill a hole in the
brake backing plate next to the bleeder fitting and then lock-tite in an
Allen head cap screw. The cylinder is therefore attached tightly to the
plate and can't come loose as it would when a circlip or retaining ring
springs off. Allen head works better than a hex or phillips. I did this
on my race car years ago and have had no problems since. It was worth
the effort and provides a big dose of peace of mind. Photos available if
you like.
Since I replaced the entire rear end this past winter due to bad threads
on the end, I have found it infinitely easier to install brakes shoes,
cylinders, etc by removing the hub, installing the brakes, and then
re-installing the hub. Only issue is that you need a 1 7/8" socket to
do the job (wrenches won't work). Also a good opportunity to check the
rear bearings for wear and torque the hub as tight as you can and use
lock-tite or a tabbed washer (properly installed). Make sure you look at
a photo or diagram (available from many internet sources) so that you
get the direction of the springs right and the spring hooks in the
correct holes. This is critical.
Bob
On 7/9/2015 8:06 PM, bmwwxman . via Spridgets wrote:
> Dear listers.....
>
> Trying to get the car back on its wheels and have run into a couple of
> problems I can't figure out. Thanks for the info on using a couple
> long bolts to compress the springs. Looks like that will solve that
> problem.
>
> On the rear axle I am having two difficulties.
> 1.) Am installing new wheel cylinders. Is there some magic in
> installing the circlip which holds the wheel cylinder in place? Tired
> of skinning my knuckles and tearing up the paint. Also tired of
> throwing things across the garage in frustration.
>
> 2.) I've tried everything I know to get the new brake shoes and
> springs installed. Everything except a pound of C-4 that is....
> What's the secret?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
>
> --
> Cheers!!
> Jim Johnson
>
> The lone Spridget in Dodge City, KS.
>
>
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>
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<font size="+1"><font face="Arial">Years ago I started using a
retaining ring instead of the circlip and they worked fine until
I came up with what I think is a much better solution.<br>
<br>
I drill and tap a shallow hole in the cylinder and drill a hole
in the brake backing plate next to the bleeder fitting and then
lock-tite in an Allen head cap screw. The cylinder is therefore
attached tightly to the plate and can't come loose as it would
when a circlip or retaining ring springs off. Allen head works
better than a hex or phillips. I did this on my race car years
ago and have had no problems since. It was worth the effort and
provides a big dose of peace of mind. Photos available if you
like.<br>
<br>
Since I replaced the entire rear end this past winter due to bad
threads on the end, I have found it infinitely easier to install
brakes shoes, cylinders, etc by removing the hub, installing the
brakes, and then re-installing the hub. Only issue is that you
need a 1 7/8" socket to do the job (wrenches won't work). Also
a good opportunity to check the rear bearings for wear and
torque the hub as tight as you can and use lock-tite or a tabbed
washer (properly installed). Make sure you look at a photo or
diagram (available from many internet sources) so that you get
the direction of the springs right and the spring hooks in the
correct holes. This is critical.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
</font></font><br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/9/2015 8:06 PM, bmwwxman . via
Spridgets wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAJgjnupxJpuhiZTqYBpqT3_ZXo7Ap9WjgXcji+nrad0_RKWeTw@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Dear listers.....</div>
<div><br>
</div>
Trying to get the car back on its wheels and have run into a
couple of problems I can't figure out. Thanks for the info on
using a couple long bolts to compress the springs. Looks like
that will solve that problem.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>On the rear axle I am having two difficulties. </div>
<div>1.) Am installing new wheel cylinders. Is there some
magic in installing the circlip which holds the wheel cylinder
in place? Tired of skinning my knuckles and tearing up the
paint. Also tired of throwing things across the garage in
frustration.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>2.) I've tried everything I know to get the new brake
shoes and springs installed. Everything except a pound of C-4
that is.... What's the secret?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.<br
clear="all">
<div><br>
</div>
-- <br>
<div class="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">Cheers!!<br>
Jim Johnson<br>
<br>
The lone Spridget in Dodge City, KS.<br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<br>
<pre wrap="">------------------------
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:spridgets@autox.team.net";>spridgets@autox.team.net</a>
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/forums";>http://www.team.net/forums</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
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spridgets@autox.team.net
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