Heard- I had a no-work issue with my MKII speedo, after getting one sent to me
(Thanks Peter!), that was similarly stiff, i disassembled both and used the
speedo drive gear from one as the odo drive gear on the other. the main
problem that I found was that the driven shaft rides in a cast zinc body, the
body being softer than the shaft actually galls onto the shaft itself if not
lubricated sufficiently. I pulled the driven shaft, buffed it clean with white
scotchbrite, reamed out the casting, and lubricated it with a couple/three
drops of Braycote oil (you might be able to find something like Nye's clock
oil or possibly use some Triflow). The phenolic gears for the odo and speedo
are the same, so if you cna find another non-working unit, you may be able to
subsititute one for another.
It now works smoothly and effortlessly.
Mark Haynes
It only goes one way-Pay it Forward
HAN6L12977
HAN5L8016
Took my BE out for a drive the other day and after about 10 miles, the
speedometer started wildly fluctuating. The odometer hasn't worked in who
knows how long so I was contemplating fixing it myself or sending it in for
repair anyway. So first I called MoMa and spoke to them about repair. Me
being a Typical Unsophisticated Southern Person, it was difficult to
understand the thick accent of the fellow I was talking to, but I think he
told me that the old speedometer cables will actually unwind somewhat
causing them to get longer. As they do, they collide with the innards of
the speedo and cause all sorts of havoc. After hearing the price to have
it repaired, I decided to tear it apart and see what was going on.
Well, the worm gear is shot so the odometer is never going to work again
without some replacement parts. The speedo part seems fine. I'm wondering
if his analysis is correct regarding the cable. What do you think?
Thanks,
Heard
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