On 9/30/2011 1:45 PM, Jim F wrote:
> Just a stupid question; Can't the singer engine be sleeved? I'm sure a
> decent engine shop could accomplish it without the expense of shipping
> to UK?
> Jim f
Its not a sleeving problem, I can get pistons/rings for it in Los
Angeles, there is a crack the length of the block about 1.5" down from
the top of the block, that leaks water, this comes from over tightening
of the head bolts and not enough metal in that area to take the stress,
a common crack. Because of the very high chromium content in the
Singer block it can NOT be welded, the result will be a even more
brittle block. That has to be metal stitched to be repaired...can do
that in the U.S.
The next issue is that due to 80 years of corrosion the cooling jacket
walls are very thin and "seeping" water into the oil, you can't see a
crack but its there between #2 and #3 cylinders and of course the entire
cooling system has badly corroded over the 80 years. In the UK they fix
that by injecting porcelain under high pressure and bake it, the end
result is a fully sealed cooling system and also a cooler running
motor. The new method is a epoxy no longer porcelain. Either method
requires fairly sophisticated equipment and experience. I have not
found a shop that does it in the U.S. When a old motor in the U.S.
goes bad you put a new V8 because that is what was original anyway and
they are plenty. I am not saying there is no shop in the U.S. that can
do it, just that I have not found one and they are dime-a-dozen in the
UK along with one shop that has experience with this exact motor as they
own one that they race.
On 9/30/2011 1:48 PM, Bob Walker wrote:
> What is the tire size on the car you wish to put the 1275 into? Also, what is
> the rear end gear ratio? My guess is you have pretty tall and skinny tires
> with maybe something like a 4/1 rear gear ratio. That would demand a much
> lower gear ratio to make the car run........5/22's or something like that.
> Another option, maybe even better is to change to a different camshaft that
> makes all power at real low revs.
> Bob Walker
See that is why I asked, not thought of tires and they would make a
difference. 4,75 x 19 are the tires.
As to torque/power the ONLY spec I have is 12.5BHP @ 1,000RPM,
26.0BHP @ 2,000RPM, 38.0BHP @ 3,000RPM and peak BHP is 46.0 but does not
state RPM. There are no lbs.ft. spec anywhere in the factory shop manual.
Original gearing is Top 5.66:1 Third 7.18:1 Second 11.56:1 First
21.05:1 I can tell you that when driving the car unless you want to
climb a telephone pole you always start in Second. I do NOT have rear
axle gearing but the rear axle track is 4'4" and that is visually close
(not measured yet) to a Spridget so maybe I could/should swap rears also.
I have never driven my car but I did drive one of the remaining 7 when
it was here in the U.S. for a month from the UK. I am going to do some
measuring this afternoon and see if its as easy as I think it will be to
do this. Walked by Mo$$ at lunch time to see what they have for the
1275 if I am going to rebuild it, I think just rings/bearings type of
rebuild.
yeah, yeah, I have been told I should sell it to someone who can
afford to fix it correctly...NO its MY CAR damm it....
mike
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