And, under synching the carbs:
1. warm up engine
2. Screw up mixture nuts all the way and then down 2 turns.
up = leaner, down = richer. (this the nut at the bottom of the carb)
3. loosen up throttle shaft couplings
4. adjust idles so carb air intake is the same, engine running (use
unisync)
5. run adjuster nut down until smooth running; or up until rough running
and then back down
6. adjust idles so they are the same(repeat back and forth steps 4 thru 6)
Stall indicates other carb is too lean when you push up the piston
pin at the side of the carb (so you'd turn down on its richness adjustment
screw)
7. do a final idle check on both carbs using Unisync.
8. tighten bolts on throttle shafts
If you need to avoid blocking holes on face of carb with Unisync base, cut
off both ends of a can.
I use and old STP Gas Treatment can (8 oz.) or a Hunt's Tomato Paste can (6
oz.)
==================================================================
-----Original Message-----
From: spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Woerpel
Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2011 2:55 PM
To: Spridgets
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Carburetors - lifting pin
Heard,
Those of us with fingers that block half the inlet when trying to lift
the piston have developed a solution, if you can't see the little bit of
"lift" you're supposed to accomplish.
It does take some technique to use the "tickler", as I was taught the
lifting pin was called.
With the air cleaners off, I use a long thin flat blade screw driver and
guess at a 32nd. It does not have to be 1/32 but close.
Did you:
1. check valve clearance, points gap, & plug gaps first?
2. check for play in the throttle shaft?
3. top up dash pots?
4. synch the carbs first(draw the same amount of air...the hose to the
ear works, as long as you can hear ;-) ) I use a Unisyn as I don't
trust my hearing anymore (keep the air hole open on the air cleaner
mounting).
5. then check the mixture with the lifting pin or screw driver. I will
use a Colortune here as again I can't always tell if the rpms rise a bit
and then drop.
You generally have to go back and forth between 4 and 5 above...at least
I do.
Sorry if you already knew this but the teacher in me came out! It's
really a sense of accomplishment when you do this the first time and get
it correct. Celebrate!!
Good luck,
Dave W.
On 8/30/2011 3:15 PM, Heard Saxon wrote:
> How do you lift this thing .031"? It feels like there is about 3/16"
before
> you feel any resistance, then it might move another 1/8" or so. I'm just
> not sure how I'm supposed to move this thing I cannot see 1/32" with my
fat
> fingers and I'm not sure where to start my guess.
>
> I'm trying to get ready for my first drive now that I finally have my
seats
> back. Been making door panels and putting in carpet. Video to come....
>
> Thanks,
> Heard
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