You might consider just getting a parts car from California and swapping the
whole tub out. I just picked up a nearly rust free 76 for $350. You see
anything newer than a 75 needs to be smogged so they are going cheap out
here in California.
Just a thought.
Tracy Drummond Gang Warily !
President AHCUSA www.healey.org
-----Original Message-----
From: spridgets-bounces+bighealey=charter.net@autox.team.net
[mailto:spridgets-bounces+bighealey=charter.net@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Andrew Payne
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 5:42 PM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: [Spridgets] Hi, I'm new. Please help me and my '76 Midget.
My name's Andrew Payne from Boone, NC. I recently bought a 76 Midget that
runs pretty well, but has a lot of rust. I broke most of the rules about
vehicle inspections when I showed up to see the car and it turned out to be
the car that I owned in high school and sold some 15 or so years ago. I
recognized the car from 50 feet away, despite the new color, by the small
diameter wooden steering wheel and the roll bar (complete with scuffs from
my rollover during my earlier ownership).
So, there are many panels with rust and I know how to deal with them, but
the real problem is the driver's floorboard. Really, the problem is the lack
of floorboard. The area has enough rust to hold up a piece of sheet metal
and the carpet - if you are really careful getting in and out. Of course
the area under the seat is perforated as well. The passenger side is
rusting, but not scary yet. There is also a 8 to 10 inch rust line which
is significantly perforated. Oh, and the A pillar and sills are bubbling
and cracking around the front left jacking point. One last thing, the rust
seems to be aggravated by seams that were painted together, and cavities in
sills, etc. filled with something that looks like Great Stuff canned
insulation.
This car will never be a show winner, but I want it to be reliable and safe.
How is the best way to fix this cheaply and with no prior welding knowledge?
I'm not scared of welding, but I do want to be realistic. I can't hire out
the whole car, but I can hire a few panels if need be. So what do I do?
Patch panels, plain old sheet steel, cut out sections from a donor, or swap
inner body intact from a donor? If I change the tub, what are the titling
implications? Help!
Thanks,
Andrew
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