Here is another way for bleeding your slave cylinder, they use this method in
the aircraft industry when there are long runs of pipe to push fluid through.
- Buy a brand new oil can, the kind with a trigger, that pumps.
- Loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, attach a piece of clear
tubing, either 3/16'' or 1/4'' to the screw.
- attach the other end of the tubing to the spout of the oil can, which will
be full of what ever brake fluid you are using.
- start pumping, this will push any air out of the slave cylinder, up through
the pipe, any air bubbles will dissipate into the reservoir of the M/C, you
don't want to have your M/C filled to the top, you will have some extra fluid
there.
Part 2, the other easy method you can use is this, most caps from brake fluid
bottles or thinner cans, will screw onto your M/C. Drill a 1/4" hole in the
centre of the cap, pull a regular rubber valve stem through the hole. Attach
the cap to the M/C, use a bicycle pump to add some pressure to the M/C and
start bleeding the slave, this is similar to the method Frank C. mentioned.
Part 3, this is my favorite way of bleeding brakes etc, the old fashion
gravity method, fill up the M/C leave the cap off, open up bleeder valve(s),
if you wait, it will flow.
Once you have a good flow of fluid, close the bleeder screw, have your better
half pump the pedal, and start bleeding. Works every time.
I have used this method the most in the 35 years of owning sprites.
The other thing that can happen, and its happened to me, the pedal is still
spongy after all the bleeding, leave everything for an hour or so, even over
night. There is no reason for this, the pedal is firm, no sponge, everything
has settled down from all the pumping.
Greg Higgins
63 sprite
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
http://www.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spridgets
|