Doug:
You will probably get all sorts of replies on this, but rebuilding your own
head is pretty straightforward and interesting. I think the machine shop would
be best to do a couple of basic operations, such as milling the head to insure
it's trueness and installing the valve guides and seats if you need them.
They could advise you on this as well. I have used a couple of local machine
shops--one of them is strictly a racing shop that usually deals with the big
throated heavy-duty high HP engines--I guess my little engines compare with the
.049 engines that we used to put on model airplanes to these guys. LOL
I have rebuilt a couple of heads--you have to use your good judgement as to
whether to install new valves, which require grinding to "dress" them, or
whether your old valves are grindable. You might want to install new head and
manifold studs while the head is off, since each torquing of fasteners
stretches the metal, and hard telling how many times over the past 30+ years
the studs have been torqued.
I built a little workshop "stand" when I rebuilt my first head that has come in
real handy. It was made from scrap 2x4 lumber and has a platform to rest the
head on and numbered holes to put the valves in as they are removed. I pass the
valve stem through it's spring and put it into the hole, insuring that
everything is going back the same as it came out.
Just a few thoughts from the country.
--David C.
WOULD A FLY WITHOUT WINGS BE CALLED A WALK?
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Doug Altman <doug_altman@yahoo.com>
> This winter I will probably have to rebuild the head assembly on my stock
>Bugeye
> A Series 948 cc serial 9CUH20079 engine. Do it myself? Have a
> reputable shop rebuild it? Purchase a rebuilt head assembly and send
>them
> my core? Who for parts? Who for machining? Who for a
>complete
> assembly? Need guidance from the team. Thanks. Doug
> Altman in central Michigan ....o~'o
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