Maybe I'll try the "hammer" method next time just to see.
Mike
Guy Weller
>
> When these were first designed, the method of causing the steel to
> "bounce"
> was the recognised and correct workshop technique. If done properly it
> works very effectively and causes no damage to the steering arm or the
> ball
> joint.
>
> It IS the correct tool for the job.
>
> However, it does require some care and needs a quick sharp tap with a
> heavy
> hammer. Not repeated random blows which will only distort the metal and
> ruin
> the steering arm as you found. As you say, the ball joint splitting tool
> is
> a good alternative and is pretty idiot-proof.
>
> Guy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spridgets-bounces+guy.weller=tiscali.co.uk@autox.team.net
> [mailto:spridgets-bounces+guy.weller=tiscali.co.uk@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf
> Of rrengineer@dslextreme.com
> Sent: 11 May 2008 16:01
> To: Michael Rowe
> Cc: 'Spridgets'
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Tie Rod End removal?
>
> I never use a hammer on anything in the front suspension. Why not try
> using the correct tool for removal, such as a ball joint splitting tool:
> http://tinyurl.com/4bdpyz
> Not cheap like a hammer, but you'll use it many times without tearing up
> the rubber boot on the tie rod end like a pickle fork does. Who doesn't
> like buying new tools?
> Mike MacLean
> 60 Sprite
> 56 BN2
>
>
> Michael Rowe
>> Use care. We struggled a long time and ruined some threads trying to
>> get
>> a
>> new tie rod back in before discovering that the hole in the steering arm
>> was
>> bent out of round by this technique.
>>
>> Michael Rowe
>> '74 Surprise
>> Long Island, NY
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