Thanks to all for your replies. I am not sure what course I will take quite
yet. I have been running without one for so long, I can go a little longer.
I have the battery up against the firewall, but I have a thick rubber mat
between the firewall and the battery.
I'll get it figured out, but first, I gotta find out why the clutch is not
working well. I have taken up all the slack on all the wallowed out bolts
and clevis pins. I'll do another bleed, as per Colin's instructions, and see
what that brings.
Brad
On Sat, May 3, 2008 at 8:09 PM, <uniquelittlecars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Brad,
>
> I used the wretch dip plastic coating on the bar. They had black and it
> looks good. It is not fool proof. But i figured it would at least help. I
> got the bolts for my battery at a local hardware store. They had SS. But i
> got the regular ones and dipped the too. So no chrome look - but semi shinny
> black when wiped clean.
>
> Vigil
>
>
> *Frank Clarici <spritenut@comcast.net>* wrote:
>
> Brad Fornal wrote:
> > I have the battery retaining bar (an original style metal one, not a
> wooden
> > one) and the "J" bolt hold downs. My problem is, the "J" bolts are too
> > short.
> Yo, you got something against wooden battery hold downs?
> They will never rust, corrode, or short out across the posts.
> As for the J bolts, any chinese autoparts seller has them for a buck or
> 2, they are too long, cut them down, throw away the stamped wing nuts
> and get a pair 1/4 x 20 stainless wing nuts and you will be good to go.
> As for the metal bar, you WILL replace that after the first time it
> shorts across the posts. Wood is good.
>
>
> --
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
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--
DON JULIO 1942
www.myspace.com/tequilabrad
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