In addition to a colorful vocabulary, you will need a 1 7/8 (IIRC) socket to
remove the hubs. Also note that the left side is left-handed thread. The
lock washers can probabally be re-used, but they're not expensive.
At this point, you might just want to drop the rear axle out of the car and
clean up everything, inspect the differential seal, bearings, etc. Then,
while you're at it, why not pull out the springs clean and paint them?
Don't forget to get new shocks and links from PPP. Since the car is up on
blocks it's only a little more effort to drop the gas tank and clean/seal
it. You might want to replace that old fuel line, and the brake lines just
as a safety measure. As long as you're replacing shocks it won't hurt to do
the fronts also. Check thoroughly for any rust in the floor pans,
bulkheads,.............
Hal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-spridgets@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of J F
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 8:54 AM
To: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: brakes, u-joints and half-shafts, oh my!
I've set about replacing the rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders, and
rear brake hose on my '73 Midget. The front brake pads still look
good and have stainless hoses installed so I'm hoping for no work at
the front.
I've read some of the merits of DOT-4 and DOT-5 fluids. I'm assuming
it's using DOT-3 now - is there any way to tell?
>From what I've read it appears that changing to DOT-5 would require
refitting the entire brake system since the fluids are not compatible
with each other, so I'm planning to use DOT-4. Do I somehow try to
ensure all of the DOT-3 has been removed (blowing air down the lines
or something?) or is it simply a matter of draining out what you can
easily get, and then hoping to purge the rest when bleeding the
brakes?
I let the car sit overnight with the brake drums removed and find that
I have a small leakage of fluid from the ends of the axles. I'm
guessing this means leaking seals at the hubs ... correct?
Seeing in the Haynes manual that you have to pull the half-shafts to
replace the seals I'm guessing I might as well replace the 34-year-old
wheel bearings while I'm at it.
I've never attempted anything like that before ... any special tools I
need? Am I correct in assuming this is fairly straight forward and an
easy "at home" repair or should I farm it out?
Also, I thought I'd lube the u-joints in the drive shaft and can see
that the rear one needs replaced immediately (and didn't have a grease
zerk anyway). How do I access the front u-joint for inspection and/or
replacement??
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