Put your pry bar between the frame member under the steering rack and push
against the crank pulley to move it as far back as you can. You might even see
it move while you do it. The tolerance is pretty small so if you do, you have a
problem. I think the max is .006 but check a manual to be sure. There was a
person on the list who did a thrust washer replacement with the engine in the
car. He wrote a step by step instructional piece but I don't think that I have
it . You might search the archives or put a call out to the list. If my memory
is any good it might have been Chris King???
---- Adrian Jones <adrianjones747@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Wow, thats a good one.
> I think you may well be correct - somehow that jives with the noise and
>jolting.
> As far as checking it - if you pry against the crank pulley aren't you
>pulling the crank to the front of the car? I assume you put the crow bar
>between the pulley and the block, or did you mean someplace else?
> Many thanks for this idea - I'll get the wife to help me out tonight!
> Cheers, Adrian
> PS. Can these thrust washers be replaced from the bottom of the car after
>removing the oil pan?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: bushwacker4@zoomtown.com
> >Sent: Oct 30, 2006 8:26 AM
> >To: Adrian Jones <adrianjones747@earthlink.net>, Spridgets
><spridgets@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: Clunk
> >
> >Well, I've got the back of the car (1500 Midget) up on jack stands trying to
>track the clunking noise.
> >
> >Adrian, check the tolerance at the crank. Sounds like your thrust washers
>are ready to fall out. Pry against the crank pulley pushing the crank to the
>rear of the car. Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal as you watch the
>crank. If you can see it move (and you probably will) the washers need to be
>replaced.
> >
> >HTH,
> >Kent
> >1960 Bugeye
> >1975 Midget - some day auto-x-er
> >1973 TR-6 - no longer leaking gas into the trunk!
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