Karl,
Check the thrust washer. YOu can do that by using a large pry bar and
seeing how far the crank moves in and out at the front pulley. It
should not move more than .1mm ( or something, I don't have the
actual clearance number at hand). If it visibly moves, the thrust
washer is gone and you need an engine rebuild. This was the only clue
I had before disassembling my engine when installing a 5 speed a
couple years ago. The clutch would not release completely, sometimes.
I figured it just needed an adjustment until I took the pan off to
fix an oil leak and found the thrust washer in the pan and the block
and crank wrecked.
Certainly hope that is not the case here tho.
Larry
On Aug 4, 2006, at 10:25 PM, Karl Vacek wrote:
> What am I missing ? I rebuilt the clutch hydraulics on my wife's
> 78 RB 1500
> Midget as soon as we got it in mid-July, and although the clutch
> released a
> bit low, which I attributed to a little remaining air, it drove
> OK. I decided
> to wait a while to re-bleed because I'd used silicone fluid and I
> wanted to
> let any entrained air separate out, so one re-bleeding would be
> enough.
> Tonight, after the car had been parked for 2 weeks I started it and
> the clutch
> wouldn't disengage. After bleeding and bellding and re-bleeding
> some more,
> and even pulling the slave cylinder out to bleed it with the bleed
> nipple
> completely straight up, I still get inadequate travel. The clutch
> is moving
> and feels normal at the pedal, but it just won't throw all the way
> out. The
> nose of the slave was dry - no leakage.
>
> Thanks!
> Karl Vacek
>
>
--
Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
macy@bbl.med.upenn.edu
System Administrator/Manager
Neuropsychiatry Section
Department of Psychiatry
University of Pennsylvania
3400 Spruce St. - 1015 Gates
Philadelphia, PA 19104
"I think the problem, to be quite honest with you, is that you've
never actually known what the question is." - Douglas Adams
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