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RE: Universal Fuel Pump...

To: "'Guy R Day'" <grday@btinternet.com>,
Subject: RE: Universal Fuel Pump...
From: "Bud Osbourne" <abcoz@hky.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2006 10:16:32 -0400
BTW, that shaft that moves the diaphragm is still available, new, from
Burlen Fuel Systems, through their authorized agents......in our case,
Moss Motors.  However, the late 1275 Midgets used the same pump as the
MGB, but with different inlet and outlet fittings.  So, for those of us
with late 1275s, we can order replacement parts and pumps through The
Roadster Factory, in Armagh (near Johnstown), PA.
Re: shaft corrosion.  I'm sure that the degree of corrosion varies from
region to region, and individual car, depending on a variety of factors.
Dunno about the Land Rovers, but, the Spridgets vent the electrical end
of the pump into what should be a reasonably dry atmosphere (the boot).
So, while I've not disassembled a large number of SU pumps, over the
last 40 years, the ones I have opened up (with one exception, just to
satisfy my curiosity about pumps taken off parts cars) haven't looked
bad, at all.
I can't help but wonder, however, how many Spridgets are running around
with the vent hose disconnected, or damaged?  I'm guessing it is not an
insignificant number.
I've got two SU pumps, removed from parts cars that had sat out in
fields for years.  I'll be taking them apart, soon, to clean up and
rebuild as spares.  I'll report my findings to the List.
Bud Osbourne  

-----Original Message-----
From: Guy R Day [mailto:grday@btinternet.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2006 8:55 AM
To: Bud Osbourne; 'Matthew Boatman'; spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Universal Fuel Pump...

Agreed.

A problem with a 30 year old pump besides 30 years of points wear is the

amount of rust that has formed on the bar or rod that moves the
diaphragm. 
This often causes the whole thing to seize up.  If the points are OK but
you 
still have a problem with slow or non movement, do the unthinkable, mark
the 
location of the diaphragm in relation to the body then break the
diaphragm 
seal and separate it from the bar and clean the rust away.  Re-assembly
is 
the reversal of dis-assembly, taking care that YOU MAKE SURE THE ROD IS 
REPLACED AND FASTENED TO THE SAME LENGTH.  (Sorry for shouting but it is

important.)  I have never used any sealants on the diaphragms when
replacing 
but I have always ensured they go back in the same position they were in

relation to the pump body.
I am aware this is heresy for a lot of people but is has meant many
elderly 
(50 year old) Land Rovers (as opposed to 30 year old Spridgets!) have 
retained their original (Lucas) equipment.  The first pump I did this to

some 25 years ago is still working and hasn't been touched since.  The 
crumbling wiring is a different matter but I don't think Lord Lucas can
be 
blamed for that even though you feel like it when trying to smoke him
out.

If the vehicle is otherwise modified or used other than on public roads
then 
fine, use whatever bits you need to.  The original pump was used on a
road 
car not a single figure mileage car.  (Smiles)  Emptying the carbs and 
spluttering at high revs is a little annoying!  (Grrrrrr!)

Guy R Day
A-H Sprite Mk IV




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