I tried an EZBleeder once and threw it away. Best bet is the old fashioned
way with two people. Make sure you are following the procedures correctly,
and easy thing to miss in conversation when someone tells you how to bleed
brakes, but MUCH more important when you actually do the work.
The flow tube on the bleed screw has to be maintained under fresh brake
fluid in a jar. Use some wire to make sure it stays in place.
Open the bleed screw and gently press down and HOLD the pedal.
Close the bleed screw and let the pedal up.
Check the fluid level in the reservior.
Open the bleed screw and gently press down and HOLD the pedal.
Close the bleed screw and let the pedal up.
Check the fluid level in the reservior.
Repeat as neccessary, until no bubbles come out the tube into the jar.
Make sure you start on the longest brake line (which is the LEFT rear on a
Spridget), then go to the next shorter, etc. (LR, RR, RF, LF, in that
order)
Also, ALWAYS use fresh brake fluid from a sealed bottle. Buy small bottles,
not a quart or gallon. An open bottle of fluid will attract water and air.
Risking a restart of the old brake fluid debate, use DOT4 fluid...not DOT3
or silicone.
Hope this helps.
Allen Hefner
Norristown PA
On 3/18/06, jomar healey <ah53@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> When I rebuilt the "Wedding Sprite" I put in all new brake lines and am
> having a hell of a time getting the air out. I thinking of buying a
Mityvac
> and am wondering the list's thoughts on pressure bleeding -foward and
> reverse and vacuum bleeding. Thanks for all your past help.
>
> Joe of the Dark Side
> '65 Sprite
> A few big Healeys
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