Speaking of turn signal sagas (with LEC content included)...
When I was in the Navy, another sailor found a sucker to unload his 1954
Ford 2-door. I paid him $400 and was thrilled to death to have a car
that would give me the freedom to get off the base.
Unfortunately, I discovered that whenever I hit the turn signal lever,
the horn sounded. And whenever I hit the horn, the turning lights
blinked for about 30 seconds. Nobody, let alone dummy me, could
understand why that was happening. An auto mechanic on the base was
mystified. I to the crazy situation, and learned to use the turn
signal lever when I needed a horn, but did not even try to use the horn
ring to turn on BOTH turn lights and confuse all of Memphis.
Finally, it was far too much for me. I sold the Ford to two other
sailors for $300, but fully explained the quirky behavior. They were
aviation electronic technicians, so were over-confident about their
ability to sort it out! (Later, I learned that they gave up and sold it
to a couple of other suckers for $200.)
With the $300 and a Navy Credit Union loan, I went down to Bluff City
Buick and Imports and (OK, here is the requisite LEC content) bought
myself the new 1960 Austin-Healey Sprite that is still an integral part
of the family!
Buster Evans
Dan Gillitzer wrote:
Took apart my old switch. Between terminals 1 and 2 (the ones which
seem to
bridge the signal from the flasher to the indicator on the dash)
there is a
green fiber board with a printed circuit running up and down this
board. Only
time I've ever seen a printed circuit on a genuine old Sprite part!
Seems to
act as a resistance block. When checking between 1 and 2 i get about
35-40
ohms resistance. With the switch assembled and switched off, I get
close to 0
ohms, with the switch on park or headlights I get the 40ish ohms.
Cleaned the
contacts, put the new toggle on the old switch, seems to all work
well. Again
the objective seems to be to possibly reduce the brightness of the
turn signal
indicator when the lights are on?
Dan
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