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Re: Clutch Question

To: Frank Clarici <spritenut@exit109.com>, spridgets <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch Question
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 01:35:46 -0800
References: <40088E72.8010605@earthlink.net> <40089ACB.6080200@exit109.com>
User-agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Win98; en-US; rv:1.4) Gecko/20030624 Netscape/7.1 (ax)
Frank,
    I remember bleeding the clutch part of the system was a bitch.  I 
used a MityVac for this and I think I got the air out of the system.  
All other componenets of the sytem are only 2 years old, so probably not 
a problem.  I ordered the stock 948/smoothcase pushrod form the usual 
suspects at the time, replacing the original rod.  I don't remember 
comparing lengths, but it is susposed to be the right length for this 
slave cylinder.  I am going to do an oil change tomorrow morning and 
will try the 5/16 nyloc nut trick.  By nyloc nut, you mean the kind of 
nut that has the nylon insert for locking I'm guessing.  Don't they make 
different length pushrods for different transmissions/years of cars?  In 
any case I will report back to the list.
Mike


Frank Clarici wrote:

> Mike MacLean wrote:
>
>> Ever since I finished the restoration on the Bugeye, the clutch has 
>> been about the same.  You have to push it all the way in to 
>> completely disengage the trans 
>
>
> Mike
>
> Assuming the hydraulics are fine and bled, check the slave pushrod.
> Different (brand) clutch components over the years are making the 
> "stock" pushrod a custom piece.
> Try this down and dirty trick.....
> Find a thin 5/16 nyloc nut, pop out the pushrod on the slave, stick 
> the nut inside the slave at the end of the rod. Now see if the clutch 
> is any different.
> If not, it's a hydraulic problem, if it is better, now you have to 
> make sure the added length of the rod isn't over throwing the clutch.
> I make most of my clutch pins from junk in the garage.
> Take a long 3/8 bolt (old shock bolts work great) cut the head off, 
> heat it cherry red, beat a flat end on one side and drill a 5/16" hole 
> in it for the pin. grind down the other end until it is the correct 
> length.
> If your existing rod is say 2 11/16" long, start with a 3" rod and 
> look inside the inspection hole to make sure the t/o bearing is not 
> riding the p/plate. You should have about an 1/8" space between them.
> If you feel creative, you can make an adjustable pushrod out of a 
> union but and some all thread.
> I have never felt creative enough to do this, I just hammer out what I 
> need when i need it.






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