Yeah, that was my suspicion. But I thought I'd try it anyway, since it
is electronic. We tight and all. ;)
I've already plugged the vac. port on the rear carb, using one of those
red "Help!" packages of rubber caps.
I do have a Mallory DP in my stash of parts. Guess it's time to buy a
cap, rotor, points, and the advance curve kit. (about $100 for all that
stuff...) The UK spec advance curve is in the Bently book, so given that
I should have a better starting point.
-=Chris
<-----Original Message----->
From: Robert E. Shlafer
Sent: 10/9/2003 9:21:43 AM
To: cbking@alum.rpi.edu
Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: tuning, part 2
Gotcha!
Ok...in any event the US spec. distributor
is neither compatible or suitable for your
application then...
There is however, a way of using yours
as strictly a mechanical advance unit until
you can get your hands on a European
spec. type. I would assume the Triumph
list would be a good source for info on
the "correct" distributor for your converted
carb application.
Block all vacuum ports to either carb or
intake manifold. You may have "holes" in
both places. Normally, vacuum retard is
ported to the intake manifold, while vac.
advance is ported to one of the carbs.
Your carb. set-up is Euro spec, so no
doubt you'll find a vac. port "barb" on
one of the carbs. rather than the intake
manifold. Whatever...block 'em.
Statically time the distributor in at 10-14
degrees BTDC. That's it. This will give
you a total of 30-34 at the crank with a
reasonable advance curve.
If you want to time it dynamically, time
it for "total advance", wherever in the
rpm range total advance is reached.
Anything between 30-34 total advance
will work until you can get a more suitable
unit.
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
.
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