John,
A small hole and an easy-out works too. Thuis design encompassed two
elements; the mechanical tumbler assembly AND a separate electrical
switch. I would check remove the steering wheel and cowling and make
sure that the switch itself is not the real problem. Sometimes the
contacts melt the plastic and it doesn't operate freely. The electric
portion is held in with a small set screw accessible from below and I
believe only the left side cowling needs to be removed. If you have
to remove the lock, you'll really need to remove the whole column to
do it. Sometimes the mechanism that locks the column gets flaky and
wiggling the wheel, as Guy suggests, is the solution.
Gerard
At 1:19 PM -0400 8/31/03, <bushwacker4@zoomtown.com> wrote:
>Pulling the column is probably easier than trying to remove the lock
>while in the car. The reason is because of the bolts that hold the
>keyswitch on to the column. The heads shear off during assembly as
>an anti-theft device. You have to cut slots in them with a dremel
>and then you can use a screwdriver to back them out. Pretty
>difficult to do while mounted in the car...
>
>It is not a bad job, all in all. Just make sure you get all the
>bolts out before you start yanking real hard. If I remember
>correctly, there are about four under the dash, three at the
>firewall and the pinch bolt on the spline at the rack.
>
>Kent
>1960 Bugeye
>1978 Midget
>
>The Haynes manual says that to remove the steering lock you must
>first remove the wheel and the steering column.
>
>John Poynton
--
One meets his destiny often in the road he takes to avoid it.
~French Proverb
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