Jeeze!
What a day, eh?! :(
First you lose the water you need, than
you get a load of it in the wrong places....
this does bite the big one.
It's a matter of wait and see, Brad. The
damage (if any) often does not show up
immediately, but downline a couple of
thousand miles or so.
You can get a head start on this though,
by taking a compression and leak-down
ASAP and noting the figures...save 'em.
Take another "set" a thousand miles or so down the road and compare. If
they are basically the same, you most likely lucked
out with respect to the head (gasket, etc.)
and rings (loss of "tension").
Now...with respect to other engine internals, you just don't know.
Fr'instance, over-heating can often lead to a loosening
of a piston pin...which can then move in
the bore (and into the side of a cylinder)
over time. BTDT through "overheating"
over time.
So, keep your ears open
for unusual "knocks" or mechanical sounds over the next couple of
thousand
miles or so. You might want to retorque
the head and re-set the valves. I would,
anyway.
On the other hand (and I sincerely hope
this is the case) you may have lucked out,
though I am inclined to think otherwise....
BUT....I have been wrong before and would very much welcome being wrong
in this case, for sure! :)
Metal, and metal "clearances" are not likely to be forgiving when it
comes to
severe overheating (assume temp. gauge
accurate, of course).
When you shut down an overheating
engine, the temperature within initially
soars, especially with respect to metal
to metal contact "in situ" or "locally".
The oil just sizzles away between the parts.
Starting it back up momentarily after a minute or so after initial
shutdown in
response to the overheating problem, so
as to circulate "new" oil to the hot parts
is not a bad idea, so as to keep the foregoing to a minimum.
Repeating this process a few times can
in this instance will allow local heat to
somewhat "disperse" rather than allow the
metal/oil/metal to sit and "bake" in situ.
The temperature will still come down
as you go through this process 'cause
you aren't going to "run" during this
process for more than a moment or two
in consideration of your reasons for doing
it this way. Just rotating the parts without
even starting will help to "disperse" or
"spread" the heat, metal-surfacewise while circulating oil.
Of course, adding the hottest water
you can possibly find in as timely a fashion as circumstances permit
is the way to go (if at all possible...which
usually it is not of course) so as to
restart ASAP to obtain normal operating temp. in as timely a manner as
possible, the idea being to limit to the
extent possible, the variation between
the hottest temp and normal operating
(up to about 220 or so) temp. experienced over time.
Well, anyway...fingers crossed on your
behalf my friend. All will be known shortly,
one way or the other. Hope you luck out! :)
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
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