In a message dated 8/5/03 5:52:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
biffjones@erols.com writes:
> I used the aluminum solder the guys sell at the shows after forming
> the two pieces to fit the rear body shelf soldered them together and all
> went well. Next up was to trim the bottom of the piece of plexiglass to fit
> the track now mounted on the top of the body vice down inside of the rear
> opening. Made a fiberboard pattren, traced it to the plexi and started to
> cut. When I was 6" from finishing the cut a hugh crack 6"+ went right up
> the plexi almost to the top! &*@*())_&*^ 30 some dollars worth of plexi
> down the %%@## drain! After I cooled down I went back to the garage and
> low and behold I now had 4 more cracks along the bottom (
Biff:
Ain't it discouraging when you put a lot of work into something that turns
out so well, only to find, in the end, that it won't fit or has a flaw of some
kind?
I bought some of that aluminum weld at a gun show after watching the guy
selling it solder up holes in a coke can slick as a ribbon. Trouble is, when I
got it home and tried to use it all I got were unattractive blobs of grainy
looking aluminum. I even tried it on a coke can, but never could get the
results
the guy at the show did. So it sits in my workbench drawer unused. Must be
some trick to it.
As far as the cracks are concerned, I have read a few times that after
cutting plexiglass, if you run a propant torch along the cut you "anneal" the
edge
of the cut. I don't know if that would stop a crack or not, but might be worth
trying. Maybe on a scrap piece first to get the feel for it and to see
whether that might retard cracking.
--David C.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/spridgets
|