Brad,
Properly fitted sleeves encompass a step or lip at the bottom . They
are a press fit and shouldn't move anyway, but between the lip and
the head, they have nowhere to go. I can only recall one engine I've
rebuild that had sleeves (all 4), but it came from the factory that
way and had no lip at the bottom. This was sometimes done if there
were defects in the casting. Yours may have been done aftermarket as
I'd be a little suspect whether a factory job would only have 2
sleeves done. Between parts and labor, it is somewhat costly to do
and probably not worthwhile compare to what another block would cost,
especially a 1098. I think I have some good .060 over pistons for a
1098. If you are interested. I can check them out.
1098 and 1275 head are not the same so valves are not
interchangeable. You can put a 1275 head on a 1098, but I believe it
requires some pocketing of the pistons for valve clearance. A 1098
head, typically a 12G295 has 1-7/32" intakes and 1" exhaust. A 1275
head is 1-5/16" or 1.4" intakes and 1-5/32" exhaust. Chamber size is
quite different with 28.3cc on a 1098 and 21.4cc on a 1275.
I don't think there is any difference between end plate gaskets,
though the back might be slightly different for the oil pump opening.
Gerard
At 3:06 PM -0500 8/3/03, Brad Fornal wrote:
>We put the pan back onto the 1275, but cannot go further until I have
>the proper gaskets. I will not make them out of silicone!!
>So, in the interim, we took the 1098 apart. The problem we found, in the
>removing the frozen pistons, is that there are sleeves on the back two
>cylinders. One of the sleeves was moving when I was trying to pound the
>piston out. What holds the sleeve still?
>I want to build a motor for the Frogeye, to get it on the road, until
>the 1275 is built. I have two guys helping me that are ready to try
>almost all the trick Vizard recommends. One friend has access to a flow
>bench, for us to use when we start the 1275. The 1098 with the frozen
>piston, it was already punched out to 20 over (what is it with me
>finding 20 over engines this weekend?) I have another 1098 block that
>has only the rotating mass in it. Should I bore IT out to 20 over, or
>should I re-sleeve the original block and keep going? Regardless of
>which way I go, I will not need both cranks for one engine. Is there
>anyone out there that needs a 1098 crank, flywheel, and front pulley? I
>assume you would want the matching mass together? I could use some cash
>for machine work!! BTW, both blocks are the 10 CC.
>I need to take the 1098 head in for some valve work, but the factory
>shop manual I have does not give valve stem diameter for the 1098
>valves. It does give the stem diameter for the 1275. Are the 1098 and
>1275 valves the same? If not, does anyone know the size of the 1098
>valves?
>I also need to get the gaskets for the front and back of both the 1275 I
>worked on yesterday, and the 1098 I worked on today. Are the gaskets for
>the plates, and oil pump basically the same, or do I need to get engine
>specific gasket sets?? Peter, Paul, and Ed, anyone know?
>That's it for this post.
>Thanks to all the will respond.
>Brad
--
One meets his destiny often in the road he takes to avoid it.
~French Proverb
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