Frank, Chuck, List,
I am returning to this thread now that I have had chance to get down to the
garage and then back to the office with the household scales.
There are 3 reasons for wanting to convert to a cable handbrake linkage:
1. Firstly, why not, I like to be different.
2. Maybe it will weigh less and thus be a performance improvement.
3. I have Wolseley 8" drums complete with a different type of handbrake
linkage and cut'n'shut (steel wheel type I think) and twisted to suit,
handbrake rods on a wire axle car.
The cable linkage assembly including the balance lever (the lever is very
different) is as close as I can tell, the same weight as the rod linkages and
balance lever. So, given the accuracy of my kitchen scale in ounces there is
no
argument on that point.
The neatest way to make up new levers would be to purchase some bar, purchase
or salvage some ends and manufacture from scratch to produce the exact,
non-stock, length required complete with the non-stock, twist. It seemed
easier to
me though to simply have a pair of cables made up instead or make my own. I
think the cable ends are over-engineered but would seek expert advice before
considering changing them.
So, I am presently undecided, no rush to do things but still inclined to
investigate having some cables made up.
Daniel1312
In a message dated 27/05/03 02:44:10 GMT Daylight Time,
cfchrist@earthlink.net writes:
>
>
> may i suggest a proper repair of the worn rods? it happens frequently in
> clutch linkage, brake linkage(when addressing mechanical rod type) and items
> like master cylinder push rods where the clevis pin passes through and the
> holes in the pedals where the pin passes also. frequent unlubricated
> friction under pressure. i get the pleasure of fixing this malady over and
> over. fabrication of replacement components is not only time consuming but
> costly . sooooo, here is the big fix!
> you weld up the damaged rods holes(no matter if it's a forked piece with
> double holes or a single hole or a shaped rod with a 90 degree bent end !
> weld up the worn area and return a shaft to the proper outside diameter or
> weld shut the hole and drill it to the proper inside diameter. the
> original hardware is not always easily fabricated nor can most be replaced.
> on sprite hand brake rods they wear badly causing ungodly rattles. my
> bugeye does not rattle! and i have a very functional hand brake. and with
> all original hardware using new clevis pins(they are dirt cheap and
> available at most hardware stores in varying lengths(if too long just cut
> off the excess length if it offends!). now, if you do not posess a welder i
> bet you have a club member or a friend who does! same goes for a good drill
> or even a drill press! be resourcefull! you do not need new rods or levers
> or pedals. they all can be repaired back to zero lash states with little to
> no agrivation. possibly i over simplify these things? but rather than
> recreate the wheel some times the wheel just needs some repair work. i
> realise we live in an era of instant gratification. find the part number
> and order a new one. but remember, thses cars come from an era where
> tinkering, fabrication, and ingenuity were importaint factors in the
> equation for repairs. fixing what broke Vs. replacing what broke is a
> dying to almost lost art. i fix evrything i can here. it's what i do.
> give it a try and you might find some very rewarding results..... :)
>
> chuck.
> the same darn bugeye for 29 years and counting!
> been there.....broke that!
A reasonable home remedy for worn hand brake rods.....
Pick up some 1/4" steel rod at any mason supply or large home improvment
store. cut it to length, heat up the ends, mash em with a big hammer, drill
holes
in them where the pins go.
I have made a couple, I also used a 1/4 x 20 threaded coupling and treaded
the rods for an under the axle adjustment link. I have no plans for this, it
was just a do it as needed type repair.
I know I made my own on my Bugeye and for the A40.
Frank
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Daniel1312@aol.com <Daniel1312@aol.com>
> To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
> Date: Monday, May 26, 2003 7:22 PM
> Subject: Handbrake linkages - axle end
>
>
> >Hi List,
> >
> >Having non standard rear brake drums on a wire wheel axle means I have
> hybrid
> >handbrake linkage rods. The rods are a little worn at the ends and I am
> >loathe to get another set just to cut'n'shut. I had thought about using a
> 1500
> >cable linkage but it didn't look appealing. Then it occured to me that I
> could
> >use a cable linkage set up utilising the Wolseley 1500 axle handbrake
> balance
> >lever and make my own cables.
> >
> >How realistic is it to make my own cables? I can buy cable and nipples and
> >even solder them on, but is this how factory cables are made or do they
> have a
> >stronger method of securing the nipple to the cable (eg tons of hydraulic
> >power)?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Daniel
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