i must chime in here as well. i'm running an old set of ferodo DS11 front
pads on the front of my bugeye with ceremetallic rear linings (i have
another set stashed!)with stock bugeye rear hydraulics. on the street!
the car stops well and after i warm up the rears it stops very well! it is
well balanced and even when i exihibition run hillclimbs with it i have no
brake balance or fade problems. now i do have well ventilated rear backing
plates to allow the rears to "breathe". and on the front the disc brake
"shields " were left off for better cooling. but, that's it. i'm running
the standard drum brake dual 7/8" master cylinder. this is very much as
the car would have been raced back in the 60's. i have a 3/4" bore disc
brake master cyl. sitting waiting to be put on the car some day. but to
date have seen no need or reason to install it. considering the vintage
set up i'm sucessfully running i'm quite curious as to why others need "more
brakes"? i can only guess that there are other conditions causing
compromise and resulting in less than desireable braking . you always
need the rears adjusted up. in that state the brakes are spot on!
improperly adjusted rears do result in some rather excessive pedal travel
and reduced braking effort. now if you are trying to compare vintage
brakes to modern honda / toyota brakes you are going to be very
disappointed! but ample braking effort can be achieved with the original
components! even in a car with superior displacement! (like mine!)
chuck.
the same darn bugeye for 29 years and counting.....
-----Original Message-----
From Mike Gigante <mg at sgi.com>
To: spridgets@autox.team.net <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 3:57 AM
Subject: RE: Improving Brakes
>In all seriousness, just get good disk pads (Hawk Carbon/Kevlar
>Street compound as an example, or EBC Green stuff for the street),
>replace your rear drums 'cause they are probably undersized, get good
>brake shoes, adjust the rear brakes, and you will not need any of this
>stuff.
>
>I run a standard, well adjusted setup with good materials and on the
>track I can outbrake other spridgets with similar sorts of exotic mods.
>I'm talking of some of the meanest tracks on brakes too (1 mile straight,
>40mph hairpin, some little esses followed by 3/4 mile straight and 40mph
>esses then 50mph corner onto main straight again -- yes it is a dinky
>track I know, but is the hardest on brakes)
>
>By choosing the right compound, I don't ever have fade problems.
>
>I used to run a cortina disk brake conversion, but I have removed it
>and gone back to std brakes for both racetrack and special stage rallies.
>
>Mike
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